Harness

Lost gear? Selling? Donating? Questions?

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl

Harness

Postby visitor » Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:35 pm

Hi. I'm going to be buying a harness soon (probably from MEC) and am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what to get/what to avoid getting? I've climbed on harness before (borrowed/rented) and I'll be climbing on rock (haven't tried ice yet, but who knows :wink: ), and indoors; The only thing I really know is that I want an adjustable harness and I'm not an overly big person. I've been looking at the Black Diamond Blizzard. Any thoughts??

Thanks for your help. :)
visitor
 
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:16 pm

Postby dcentral » Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:03 pm

Adjustable leg loops is a good idea. I have fixed leg loops on mine and I wish more times then not I could adjust them. Although if you are lazy it's the way to go.

I don't like those Rock Empire(I think) that have the gold stiching around the waist. Those are really uncomfortable and some how seem to easily get all cluster frigged on you when you take them off. Then you have to spend 5 mitues sorting them out. A lot of gyms have them -- I hate them.

A lot of people I know have Arc'teryx harnesses and no body says anything bad about them.

That blizzard one looks nice.

Make sure get one though with a good haul loop in the back and really try to sit in the harness before you buy it.

One of the BD harness modles has that multicoloured ribbed waist belt webbing. I wouldn't recommend that one at all, everyone says it's a real pain to do up.

I'm going to have to get a new harness next season I think.
User avatar
dcentral
 
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:00 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

Postby martha » Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:41 pm

I say Arc-teryx all the way. They are sweet. I have the Womens Isis, which is amazing and it does have fixed leg loops. I personally find these WAY more comfortable then the adujustable ones. Especially in the summer with shorts on. They are snug over my ice gear, but aren't a problem.

I recently bought the Arc-teryx Verro as my Isis had worn through the belay loop (I climb a lot) anyways, it has adjustable leg loops and I like this one also. My only problem is that since I am a woman with hips and a waist and a short rise, the Womens Specific Harness (Isis) is way better suited for me. I will likely buy another one soon.

Fred currently has the Arc-teryx Vapor and used to have the Targa. He can tell you more about what he thinks, but I know he likes them both.

I've climbed in several other harnesses and I don't like the Petzl ones as the molded gear loops are too small for racking full trad gear plus they angle towards the front which makes all the gear slide between your legs everytime you step up and that is annoying as heck. The waist is also bigger in the back and that can be uncomfortable too. The Black Diamond one is pretty good but some of them have moulded plastic on the waist, and it just never breaks in well.

if you are serious about climbing, and plan on having the harness for a few years, make sure it has anything you might need.

I agree with Dcentral that a good haul loop in the back is nice. All the Arc-teryx harnesses have them. Be aware that they are not rated for dynamic loads, only static ones... like hauling the pig. I also agree with him on the Rock Empire harness. It is a less expensive starter harness, but really stiff and hard to break in, not to mention not particularily comfortable. I've climbed in it a fair bit too.

hope this helps.

cara
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby granite_grrl » Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:40 pm

I second the Isis. Its pretty comfortable, has the haul loop, the gear loops sit well (can access the gear on all loops while trad climbing, I usually rack on my harness).

My first harness had adjustable leg loops, but I never bothered adjusting them. The second time around I just went with the fixed leg loops, haven't found it to be a problem yet.
User avatar
granite_grrl
 
Posts: 925
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:56 pm
Location: St. Catharines, ON

Postby Fred » Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:55 pm

the Black Diamong momentum is a great affordable harness that is completely adjustable. Also, if you don't have a belay device and chalk bag I recommend getting the package deal from MEC $95. Can't beat that anywhere.

avoid Petzel like the plague since the gear loops might not be big enough for a nut tool and ATC at the same time

The BD blizzard is a sweet harness but made for ice climbing. It's a bit much if you aren't gona be doing any ice climbing or mountaineering. You are paying for things like the ice clipper carabiner which you might not need.

Custom fitted harnesses are sweet. That's all I use.
For those I recommend:
Arcteryx Targa (mens)
Arcteryx Isis (womens)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby Andrew » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:11 pm

I've always used the Rock Empire Peak Plus. I have two of them, medium and large. I tink they're fine, but now I've only ever worn the ratty ones at gyms before that. They are totally adjustable and at least medium comfortable. I have taken 3 falls in them, 15 feet and two 10 footers with no pain. They can get clusterfrigged trying to sort them out, but its not hard to sort it out once your used to it. I bought it cause everyone else I knew had them and they were really low prices. They are like 39$ now. I don't think you cna find a better harness for less anywhere.

I think my next harness will be arcteryx, but for now my rock empire wl be fine.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby dcentral » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:13 pm

I find my petzel pretty comfortable but I have an older model that they don't make anymore.

The nice thing about the Isis leg loops is the little bit of elsatic so they can stretch to accomodate heavier pants.

I guess the thing about fixed leg loops is make sure they fit. Mine are little too big and they get annoying when you are in the harness for a long time.
User avatar
dcentral
 
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:00 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

Postby jeremy » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:15 pm

my Isis had worn through the belay loop (I climb a lot) anyways

That just means you pull belay duty a lot :lol:
User avatar
jeremy
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:33 pm
Location: oromocto NB

Postby Ropeguy » Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:10 pm

Hey Martha does the Verro have the big wide elastic band like your new pants??? :lol: :lol:
I stopped using my BD momentum for a Petzl Corax and I much prefer the corax.Little more expensive but you don't have to double back because of the buckles....and more comfortable...
User avatar
Ropeguy
 
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:22 pm
Location: Rothesay

Postby martha » Thu Oct 27, 2005 7:20 am

Ropeguy wrote:Hey Martha does the Verro have the big wide elastic band like your new pants??? :lol: :lol:


Hey Ropeguy, Do you want a belay? :twisted:

Well, since this is about harnesses, and so you all know, I have moved onto the Petzl 8003 to accomodate my growing belly. It works really well, and though it is a bit uncomfortable on rappell due to the un-padded leg loops. There are only 2 gear loops so following long trad routes is a pain since all the gear goes in two places, but otherwise, that is my only complaint. It took a while, and some climbing to get it completely adjusted to my height etc, but now it is really good. It certainly does the trick and keeps me on the rock at 6 months pregnant and still growing!

I'm still climbing harder than you in it Ropeguy, 'big wide elastic band pants' and all. :lol: :lol:
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby Fred » Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:33 am

jeremy wrote:That just means you pull belay duty a lot :lol:


shush. Don't go making her think it's not ok to belay for a full day without climbing. :wink:
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby Fred » Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:35 am

martha wrote:I have moved onto the Petzl 8003 to accomodate my growing belly.



:lol: :lol: :lol:

B.A.G.

sounds like a TV model number. Climbing gear usualy has cool names like Vapor, Targa, Corax but this one laddies and gentlemen is the model 8003

:P
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby PaulB » Thu Oct 27, 2005 5:10 pm

As with most climbing gear that you wear, fit and comfort are the major concerns followed by features like adjustable leg loops, gear loops and a haul loop.

martha wrote:if you are serious about climbing, and plan on having the harness for a few years, make sure it has anything you might need.

If you really get into it (and are a bit of a gear slut) you can end up with several harnesses! For example, you might have an Arc'Teryx Targa (for summer rock climbing), a BD Blizzard (tricked out with ice clippers and tool holsters for ice climbing) and a BD Alpine Bod (for alpine climbing and ski mountaineering). :P
PaulB
 
Posts: 107
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 12:46 pm
Location: North Vancouver, BC

Postby visitor » Thu Oct 27, 2005 7:19 pm

Thanks for all the advice. :D I think I've narrowed it down the the BD Blizzard and the Arc-teryx Isis. For some reason I think adjustable leg loops are the way to go (not sure why though). Does anyone happen to know where I could buy the Isis? I don't see any on the MEC site.
visitor
 
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:16 pm

Postby dcentral » Thu Oct 27, 2005 7:22 pm

User avatar
dcentral
 
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:00 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

Postby Mountain_Marc » Thu Oct 27, 2005 7:23 pm

I'm a fan of the Misty Mountain Cadillac. It's like sitting in a couch!

http://www.mistymountain.com/cadillac.htm

One day, i will go to West Virginia and they'll have my size! One day!

In the meantime, Arcteryx Verro has served me well for long routes in Yosemite, sport climbing, and ice climbing.
"You can't practice to be miserable. You're either good at it or you aren't."

"If a wife speaks in the woods, and her husband is not there to hear her...is she still wrong?"
User avatar
Mountain_Marc
 
Posts: 246
Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2004 1:28 pm
Location: Ottawa, Ontario

Postby visitor » Thu Oct 27, 2005 7:56 pm

dcentral wrote:http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441773575&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302691023&bmUID=1130455271434

Mec still has them.


Must have skipped right by it. Thanks :)
visitor
 
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 6:16 pm

Postby Ropeguy » Thu Oct 27, 2005 9:13 pm

Hey Fred I was thinking the 8003 meant mm's around the waist!!
:lol: thought maybe it was a maternity harness.

Oh and Martha,I will gladly use you as a belay slave,I figure you could now hold my 210lb carcuss up there in the event of a fall.....As a matter of fact at 6 months your could probably hold Fred,me and a Buick without to much problem!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
User avatar
Ropeguy
 
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:22 pm
Location: Rothesay

Postby martha » Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:32 am

Ropeguy wrote:Hey Fred I was thinking the 8003 meant mm's around the waist!!
:lol: thought maybe it was a maternity harness.

Oh and Martha,I will gladly use you as a belay slave,I figure you could now hold my 210lb carcuss up there in the event of a fall.....As a matter of fact at 6 months your could probably hold Fred,me and a Buick without to much problem!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:


Well fortunately for me Ropeguy, even with 9 months of pregnancy weight I will still be nearly 50lbs slimmer than 210lbs, (you forget how short I am!) however, I would gladly belay you on anything you like as you are just such a nice guy.

What are your hardest projects this fall? you must be climbing those tough 5.6's by now eh? :lol: :lol:
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby Stef » Fri Oct 28, 2005 8:14 am

Stef
 
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:55 am

Postby Stef » Fri Oct 28, 2005 8:17 am

Stef
 
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:55 am

Postby Mountain_Marc » Fri Oct 28, 2005 8:50 am

Man, they can't even spell "rappelling"

Maybe it's because the harness looks so shoddy that it will "repel" climbing partners away. :lol:
"You can't practice to be miserable. You're either good at it or you aren't."

"If a wife speaks in the woods, and her husband is not there to hear her...is she still wrong?"
User avatar
Mountain_Marc
 
Posts: 246
Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2004 1:28 pm
Location: Ottawa, Ontario

Postby martha » Fri Oct 28, 2005 9:58 am

perfect one stop shopping! a climbing harness and a gun case! :lol:
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby Richard Eh! » Fri Oct 28, 2005 10:32 am

Is it just a coincidence that this type of harness is listed directly under "Bait Protector" :lol: :lol: :lol:
If'n ya think ya can, ya can! If'n ya think ya can't, yer right....!
Richard Eh!
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 5:05 pm
Location: Fredericton

Postby dcentral » Fri Oct 28, 2005 10:56 am

Never trust anyone who thinks using Comic Sans is a good choice.

http://bancomicsans.com/home.html
User avatar
dcentral
 
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:00 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

Postby Ropeguy » Fri Oct 28, 2005 9:05 pm

Those (content moderated) at McDonalds and Starbucks,How dare they use Comic Sans without asking permission from the brothers and Sisters of the movement :lol: :lol: :lol:


(content moderated)


Thank you Martha for offering to Belay me,Just for that I wanted to let you know that you may name your first born after me!! :lol: and by the way....I'm toproping a 5.61/2 now!!
User avatar
Ropeguy
 
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:22 pm
Location: Rothesay

Postby Fred » Sat Oct 29, 2005 10:29 pm

Ropeguy,

you aren't funny. You can stop now.

peace
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby Ropeguy » Mon Oct 31, 2005 6:43 pm

I was just kiddin Freddy,Don't get upset........ 8)
User avatar
Ropeguy
 
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:22 pm
Location: Rothesay

Postby Andrew » Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:18 am

Hey ropeguy. I live in Quispamsis, too. What's your name?
Ropeguy wrote:I was just kiddin Freddy,Don't get upset........ 8)
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby Fred » Tue Nov 01, 2005 9:50 am

Ropeguy wrote:I was just kiddin Freddy,Don't get upset........ 8)



I just don't like my wife getting all that "whale" attention. She looks great and is climbing supper solid still.

peace
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB


Return to Gear

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests

cron