New Route Sunnyside

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New Route Sunnyside

Postby Leehammer » Sat Nov 13, 2010 11:09 pm

TWO-ARMED BANDIT 5.10d 25'/S(2)/R(2)
FA: L. Paull, D.Drolet 2008
FFA: L.Paull, M. MacDonald, P. Adamson, J. Melenberg 2010.11.13

Right of Celestial Motion climb straight up bolted clean streak. There is a huge detached block to the right that should not be used. I will try to lever it out at some point.
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Re: New Route Sunnyside

Postby Adam » Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:28 am

FTR i think it's 10b, but maybe my height makes it easier.

cool move tho - up to that undercling that feels horrible till u get up on it.
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Re: New Route Sunnyside

Postby Leehammer » Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:32 am

if I got it within 2 letter grades I'll be happy :)

Also should mention, it needs a bit more cleaning...
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Re: New Route Sunnyside

Postby Leehammer » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:35 am

Finally got back and cleaned this one a bit. Some go climb it if you want.
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Re: New Route Sunnyside

Postby Dom » Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:03 pm

cool, I did it a few weeks ago. I think 10d is fair for the grade. Nice route!
So much rock, so little time
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Re: New Route Sunnyside

Postby theriault » Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:14 pm

SANTÉ MENTALE 5.10c 50'/S(7)/R(2)
FFA: M. Thériault, C. Taylor 2011.10.15
Start on the obvious arête just left of "Lightning", gain a big ledge then fire off the steep face to bolted anchor.



Grade is unconfirmed could be harder (or not) for shorter climbers.... lets find a consensus, let me know
Marty
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Re: New Route Sunnyside

Postby Dom » Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:01 pm

theriault wrote:SANTÉ MENTALE 5.10c 50'/S(7)/R(2)
FFA: M. Thériault, C. Taylor 2011.10.15
Start on the obvious arête just left of "Lightning", gain a big ledge then fire off the steep face to bolted anchor.



Grade is unconfirmed could be harder (or not) for shorter climbers.... lets find a consensus, let me know


Cool route and a nice addition to Sunnyside. I think 5.10c makes sense. I like the name too. For a lot of us that's what climbing does to us.
So much rock, so little time
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