chains on anchor now

[motanb]

today i added two galvanized chains onto the bolts on top of "Let Freedom Ring". Cory Hall climbed the new route today and he feels the grade to be approximately 10c/d. I think this is somewhat true; so, to be more specific, the route dials in around10+.
I also climbed slippery when wet today! Had a blast! The new start variation with 3 bolts is technical. I played on the moves around the 2nd bolt; thin holds long moves, delicate smearing too. I think if one does this 'direct' version of slippery when wet then the route is around 12a. It is defintely a great challenge.
We finished the day on Bird of Fire, 10a,its located on the left side of minkey wall. It is a great climb with plenty of pro. you can essentially sew the route. Bolt anchors at the top too. One of Ulysses best new routes (in my opinion;-)
It was a beautiful day in Welsford with a slight breeze fading in & out all day long, helping to give a brief respite. Peregrins are doing well.. screeching all day long to keep us entertained.

[Burley]

Tom,

Is Bird of Fire the route that you need one particular Tricam to protect a section?

Erick

[motanb]

I am not aware of any such placements or sections where only a specific tri-cam is necessary. Everytime in which I climbed it i used a blend of cams and stoppers, but mainly just cams. If you get on it and scan closely in any section you`ll find bomber pro. the crux is by the pine tree that grows half way up the route. It protects with bomber nuts or cams. I`ve held falls on this section where the climber used a bomber number 8 wild country rock placement.
This climb really is super fun!! I would hesitate... get on it and enjoy;-)

[motanb]

I mean I wouldn`t hesitate.

[Shawn B]

A heads up to anyone encouraged by the above. Ulysse, when puting up this route, was seriously contemplating placing a bolt to adequately protect the crux. Does this tell you anything about the true protection grade? Not 10a either. Whadya think Matt, we climbed it this spring. 10a???

[Burley]

If this is the route Ulysse was going to put the bolt on then it is without a doubt the one Dave Lister was telling me about that requires a tri cam? Who knows. If it'll take a Tri cam it might take an alien (mmm... aliens).

I'll put it on my list.

BTW zeros suck... damn trigger wire connections keep bending and catching the lobes... won't let it thing open and close smoothly... scary stuff. I've had more problems with BD and WC than my aliens.

[motanb]

Hey Shawn et al.. I'll gladly go with anyone interested any sew the whole thing up safe and sound and show you , in actuality, the degree of adequate pro on this route. just out of curiousity, where is it on the route that a bolt is a consideration? Below the pine or above it?
in terms of the grade, Ulysse suggested 10a; I really don't care what the grade is but I will admit that it could potentially be more like 10c. What do you folks think? Maybe it should be 10c?

[motanb]

a further note... Ulysse did put a bolt on "the way life should be".... Is this the route you are thinking of Eric?

[Matt Peck]

ummmm yeah..... Tom, I dunno about "sew it up" I think you could thread in a nut, but a tricam goes in at the crux, and not a great one. You could put in a cam down low, and it wouldn't be a big fall, but I wouldn't call it super well protected. Nice climb, but I think you're hypin a bit buddy. I hear you Shawn. Burley, that crux is ballin hard. Make sure you do it when the rock is cool, as you need maximum friction for the handhold. Tom, you'll have to take me out and show me the beta for there, cause I get beat up all the time on that route. 10 c sounds good. Not a 10a, no way.

[motanb]

Absolutely Matt, i'd love to climb it with you. Where is this manky tricam placement anyway??? Every piece of pro that I place on that route is "bomber" in my opinion. I've been on enough routes in many various locations to have a keen understanding of sound pro and suspect pro.
If it is being implied that there is a section where one must climb 8 or 10 ft above their last piece before placing another; i don't believe this warrants a quality assessment of 'bold' or 'sketchy'. if I recall correctly, when i climbed it this past sunday I put in approx. 11 pieces in roughly 100ft of route. the longest runout was maybe 8 to 10 ft... well if this is sketch then i 'll have to re-evaluate my understanding of the concept.
I still firmly believe that this is a perfectly safe climb provided one knows how to place pro... and i always will. I advise anyone with competent leading skills to get on 'er and enjoy;-) You too Shawn;-)

[STeveA]

I advise anyone with competent leading skills to get on 'er and enjoy;-) You too Shawn;-)

Shawn

I think he is implying that you do not have competent leading skills......

[motanb]

Steve... I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume your using your dry humour. Enjoy Yosemite;-)
Also, i was in welsford yesterday and happened to climb 'psychic hotline' and rapped down strata fator. I couldn't help but notice a bomber pro placement above the last bolt on the 2nd pitch; I gauged the distance form this placement to the top jugs--it was approx. 8 to 10 feet!10 ft of 5.7 on bomber pro!! Go get on 'er Steve;-)

[Cor]

I pulled Thom's pro on Bird of Fire and it looked good.

That's a solid climb without a bolt. It is hard to talk about one way to climb it, or what the grade is as if science. We all love climbing and climbing is risky.

Strata Factor direct rocks. Once you get past the last bolt is it a jug haul. Tomorrow I will put a bolt on Strata Factor, middle of the second pitch. I have not climbed it for years, but when I did it the first time the run out was a bit much, so I put in a piton. The piton is long gone, but the route is worth doing for sure... especially the open book layback in the middle-- very fun!

[Shawn B]

I advise anyone with competent leading skills to get on 'er and enjoy;-) You too Shawn;-)

Shawn

I think he is implying that you do not have competent leading skills......

I think he is too.

[motanb]

Dont be so sensitive;-) Its only climbing. See you guys on the rock