Up Rope Fun Route

[Fred]

It's a great time of year to enjoy some routes that would normaly be wet. Everything in Welsford is bone dry right now. On Saturday we managed to climb Up Rope on Waterfall Wall. If you've never climbed this line it's definitely worth doing and now's the time since it's dry and we cleaned out the cracks. Gear is PG so I TR'd it before red point. Sweet line.

[STeveA]

This route got its name from the comments by the second (Richard Burton), and I do mean comments (plural).

[mothecat]

I did that route about ten years ago. It was superfun then too.

Mo

[Matt Peck]

Did this line today, It was Sweeet! Greasy holds with the humidity made the crux a bit stiff, but the rest flowed nicely. What's with the chalked up sucker jug up right of the bolt? You can't do anything from that side.

[Fred]

perhaps you are refering to the hold on Dry Toolers?

[STeveA]

I recently reclimbed this route, and I found the lower part tricky and committing. How did you guys find this?

[Fred]

I agree. It was the crux for me. I managed to place a small cam then went to the undercling. From the undercling (pumpy) you can reach up and place a #1 camalot on the left vertical crack before pulling through the bottom roof. Once you place the piece downclimb and rest on the ledge before proceeding. This will keep you off the ledge.

[STeveA]

That sounds about right. The holds are positive, but you have to have trust.

[Matt Peck]

nah, I meant just up by the bolt. There is a big jug up and left of the bolt that was super chalked up when I got there, and when I tried going left around the crack I got shut down. I downclimbed and went right around the crack and it went fine. I just thought it must have been a sucker jug. Tastey route.

[Fred]

I know what jug you mean now. I go left hand on that and super high step under the bolt to a nice edge. Rock on mantle and reach right hand sidepull to the crack. Was pretty easy I found when I did it that way.

[STeveA]

Initially that section was climbed on the left until a hold broke. Then the move that Fred describes became the key to getting through that section. Actually ends up being a more enjoyable move.

[mathieu]

I know what jug you mean now. I go left hand on that and super high step under the bolt to a nice edge. Rock on mantle and reach right hand sidepull to the crack. Was pretty easy I found when I did it that way.

Nahh, I skip the rock on mantle and just bust up a dyno to a 2 finger pocket then gaston with my left big toe. sick dude, its sick.
Good to hear that everyone is getting out and climbing strong this fall. Hope to make it back to NB next year for some rock.

[martha]

we miss you too Matt!!! Come to visit soon!

[Matt Peck]

Yeah Matthieu, Come climb some ice out east this winter.
I went right around the bolt by laybacking the crack and highstepping my foot into the big pod. Strenuous pull puts you at a set of good crimps and then back into the crack.
Pretty good.