rope recommendations

[Guest]

hey all

planning on getting a new single rope. was wondering what people's recommendations are.

my first was a mammut duodess flash, and while it was a solid rope i have gotten a sense that mammut sheathes seem to be subpar. mine 'buffed' up pretty quick (though i admit some of that was a result of poorly extended anchors etc from being a noob ) and i've seen others deteriorate pretty fast.

comments? suggestions?

adam

[rendog]

If I'm going out to a bunch of TR or if i know that I'm going to be doing some climbing that is going to be taking my rope over edges, then I'd go for a Sterling rope. They're sheath's are very well constructed, although they feel like you trying to belay with a soft cable utnil it gets used a bit.

IMHO...don't go anywhere near a Bluewater rope. I had 4 ropes of thiers all of them went out on warrenty...the core shot out of the sheath by sometimes as much as 20" in one instance

Mammut Infinity 9.2 is what I've been using for the last 3 years and I love them.

just my $.02 worth

[Fred]

I just bought a Maxim Glider 9.8. It's the same rope that Brent has and it kicks ass. Everyone who touches it is like "whoa! this is nice!" It's got a superb sheath. check out the reviews.

Got mine at http://www.mountainmagic.com for decent deal.


my recommendation... never buy another Mammut. Beal is pretty good and my Edelrid seems to be holding up too.

Mammuts just seem to dry out.

[Guest]

yah, i'll be using it for leading and *hopfully* limited top roping. will try to just keep using my mammut for t/r, though i'm not about to carry both ropes up!

do you think stiffer ropes reduce rope drag??

[martha]

I do know stiff ropes suck to belay with. The rope doesn't slide well in the ATC and it gets stuck when trying to pull slack for clipping etc. Even worse in belaying a second up to an anchor. It is a hell of a work out.

Not much long stuff around here to worry about rope drag anyways. Long sling and/or doubles can fix that problem in a hurry.

[Fred]

If you are thinking you'd like to limit rope drag I'd read reviews on the Maxim Glider. It's supposed to be the best selling feature. Like I said, the sheath feels pretty sweet to the touch. Like no other rope you've felt before. It's weird.

[Guest]

drag is just one factor. its always nice to have less. not so much worried about the belayer's drag... would rather it had more drag going through the atc than less....

obviously longer slings reduce drag. but i'm talking after even doing that. a soft, supple rope is going to give more drag cause more rope will be in contact with the biner.

will check out the glider. that link you posted didn't have any gliders listed...

[martha]

Belayers drag is a pain if you are trying to clip in a hurry and they can't feed out rope because it is so stiff in the ATC. You might miss a sketchy clip due to it.

Once you pull the rope to clip and engage the ATC it is then even harder for them to pull slack out for you with a stiff rope....or worse if they are using a grigri.

More drag in the ATC for catching a fall doesn't matter much if they are a good belayer. they'll catch you either way.

If then, after long slings and other precautions you are still worried about rope drag, get a light (9.8 or smaller) rope and some DMM Revolvers for your clipping ends.

[Fred]

I just checked the link again and they do list the Maxim Glider 9.8mm for $170 Ask Brent to see his rope. You'll be impressed. I climbed for two summers on a 9.8 and it's sweet. Makes a huge difference for weight and drag but wears out alot faster.

If you are going to be using smaller diameter ropes I would advise against using a GriGri. I'd love to try out the new Trango Cinch though. I guess it goes to 9.4mm. And if you belay down to doubles the size of 8mm get one of those smaller ATC like the BD ones with teeth or the little Reversino. Man those tinny ropes are fast. Yes I know you can use two binners and get more bight but...

let us know what you end up buying

[Guest]

yes, it IS listed. doh.

[sb]

Beal Flyer 10.2 will be my next single rope. I currently have the Mammut Flash 10.5 and have been happy with it (2 years and still in decent shape but dry treatment gone). Beal Top Gun 10.5 is also a nice rope if you want something beefy. I think most people who had problems with the Mammut were buying the 10mm (Galaxy I think). I didn't like that rope as much as the Flash. I didn't like the Sterling as much as it was too cable like and thus handled poorly and didn't knot well. I would never buy another Edelrid. 33's Maxim does seem nice too and he is happy with it. Doesn't come in bi-colour though...same as the Beal. But at least the Beals have a nice big permanent black mark. Bi-colour is more convenient though. No permanent middle mark is a real pain in the bum.

[sb]

And re the rope drag...that is caused not by the rope but by the climber. I personally think it is just marketing crap about one rope producing less rope drag. Same as the biner thingy...just a way to sell new biners as the latest thing.

[mitchleblanc]

And re the rope drag...that is caused not by the rope but by the climber. I personally think it is just marketing crap about one rope producing less rope drag. Same as the biner thingy...just a way to sell new biners as the latest thing.

You really think that the weave of the sheath has nothing to do with the rope drag? Rope drag is caused by: Friction. Not by the climber. I don't see how a smoother sheath would not help reduce drag, given the same situation. I don't speak from experience, mind you, though I think Fred does.

[Who cares again!!]

You really think that the weave of the sheath has nothing to do with the rope drag? Rope drag is caused by: Friction. Not by the climber. I don't see how a smoother sheath would not help reduce drag, given the same situation. I don't speak from experience, mind you, though I think Fred does.

DUH, yeah Mitch it is...think about how small a surface the sheath is to the belay device....then think who creates the friction....THE CLIMBER. For good info see http://www.getoutdoors.com/go/golearn/97
I don't think Fred wrote that info.... ;o)

[Who cares again!!]

DUH, yeah Mitch it is...think about how small a surface the sheath is to the belay device....then think who creates the friction....THE CLIMBER. For good info see http://www.getoutdoors.com/go/golearn/97
I don't think Fred wrote that info.... ;o)

I just wanted to clarify that I do know that there IS friction between the rope and belay device but that it won't cause rope drag.....

[martha]

people who post with no name really annoy me. but oh well.

Rope drag is cause by the climber...who places his/her gear all over the place and doesn't extend draws to meet in the middle or get over roofs and slabs etc. However, the rope going through all the biners also causes some drag. It has to...two surfaces rubbing together makes friction.

But I agree with shawn, that most of your rope drag can be fixed by the climber. If the climb wanders too much..use two ropes! And if you are sport climbing, suck it up! hauling a little extra weight won't hurt ya. call it training weight if you will.



I have had the Mammut Galaxy 10mm...and it has worn out quickly. it is really stiff too and i'm not liking it. My next single rope for Welsford might be a 10.5 again even though it is heavy. Then just get a 9.7 for sport climbing or hard leads.

Brent loves his rope from what I know. we'll see how fred likes his too soon enough.

Personally I dig the doubles. shawn's especially....I'm getting some like his for next years ice. they kick butt.

[Fred]

I think you guys are saying the same thing indirectly. Rope drag is caused by the rope being bent all out of shape over edges and biners and it's a sum of all those kinks that makes for a bitch to haul your rope over 30m. I think Mitch was only implying that friction is a function of the rope not the climber (from an engineering point of view read up on coefficient of friction). And Mr "I don't remeber my name" was saying that it is the climbers fault for causing friction which is true and surely Mitch knows this since he's the smartest person on here. But to help Mitch out... lets talk coefficient of friction and I think you'll understand what he was saying.

Take two ropes. The Maxim 9.8 glider (super smooth sheath) and a Maxim Levitator 11mm (regular sheath). Place both ropes in the identical situation of rope drag and science can only result in one rope being better for drag. Thus, sheath does matter and is a function of the rope not the climber. In one of my previous posts I was relaying info about the Maxim glider when I was searching the net to buy one. The reviews were saying that it is a great rope to reduce rope drag and when you feel this rope you will know why. Like I said... It's like no other sheath you've felt before.

The sidetrack discussion about belay devices and friction was for smaller diameter ropes. I don't think sheath comes into play too much for the belay device. Plus, the rope drag that I was refering to was for leading (hauling the rope without tension). So I hope your belayer isn't giving you tension while you lead. That would suck! When I was talking about the small ATC's I was thinking more for rappelling or catching a fall.

[mitchleblanc]

DUH, yeah Mitch it is...think about how small a surface the sheath is to the belay device....then think who creates the friction....THE CLIMBER. For good info see http://www.getoutdoors.com/go/golearn/97
I don't think Fred wrote that info.... ;o)

Dude, what are you talking about? The belay device?! We're talking about rope drag here, not belaying. When SB said the climber creates rope drag, he was implying that bad route finding and bad clipping (all the climber's fault) is what causes it. Not the belayer. He was playing "devil's advocate", and implying that "who cares what rope you have as long as you know what you're doing as a competent leader?". (At least, this is what I assumed).. He was making fun of gear hounds who know nothing and buy the nice gear, and of marketing ploys to sell stuff to dumbasses.

Now, I'm not sure what kind of crack you're on, because you are making absolutely no sense. Thanks though, but I don't think I need to learn to belay, and I'm not sure you should be reading how to belay on the internet either, for that matter. I suspect that reading isn't your forte.

Your post doesn't even make any sense. "I don't think Fred wrote that article"? Good point. I think you're probably right. In any case, I was writing that Fred has used a rope with low friction sheath...

And you write about the area of the belay device? What are you talking about?

I can't even go on. Perhaps we'd best get a discussion going before I elaborate.

[rendog]

I can't even go on. Perhaps we'd best get a discussion going before I elaborate.

Done

[Guest]

anyone know anything about lanex ropes?

[Dude....]

Dude, what are you talking about? The belay device?! We're talking about rope drag here, not belaying.
Now, I'm not sure what kind of crack you're on, because you are making absolutely no sense. Thanks though, but I don't think I need to learn to belay, and I'm not sure you should be reading how to belay on the internet either, for that matter. I suspect that reading isn't your forte.

Your post doesn't even make any sense. "I don't think Fred wrote that article"? Good point. I think you're probably right. In any case, I was writing that Fred has used a rope with low friction sheath...

Dude, take it easy man....you seem to be quite a hot-head...are you short or something?
I had my wife read this thread and yeah you are right i did misinterpret the discussion....(go figure). I do apologize for that.
However, in my defense, I honestly did think that you were talking about the rope through the belay device.
For your information i don't do crack just high quality cocaine that (xxxxx content moderated) like you couldn't afford. ;o)
Honestly, who ever the hell you are you really make this forum unenjoyable with all your useless feedback about how people spell, etc. I feel sorry for you. (I know, i know, if i don't like it here i don't have to come...but hey, it's a free forum isn't it!?)
Where you say, ""Your post doesn't even make any sense. "I don't think Fred wrote that article"? Good point"",...Sorry that I can't read your mind young man but your original comment lead the reader to believe that this "Fred" (who ever the hell he is) was "Mr Know it all" about this topic...that is why i attached the article and stated that "he" didn't write that...the facts. Again, i don't know who the hell you are so I don't know how to really understand what you are trying to say.
Now, after reading the recent informative posts on this topic I do see that your "Mr Fred" is quite intelligent and knows quite a bit about this subject. He also seems like a very nice young man who maintains an unbiased opinion, and who never stoops low enough to name-call and accuse. (at least on this forum anyway)
Mitchleblanc, if this is in fact your real name, I pray that you find peace within yourself (xxxxx content moderated)
God Bless!

[rendog]

WOW

all of this warring going on after Adam was just asking about a reccomendation as to which rope he should look into buying.



LMMFAO!!!

[dcentral]

Apparently there are no dimple questions or easy answers.

[dcentral]

not being able to edit posts sucks.

that should be simple.

[mitchleblanc]

Apparently there are no dimple questions or easy answers.

There wasn't, up until now!

Dimple Questions:

noun : Questions posed on internet forums which result in little or no discussion, including personal attacks, profanity of off topic remarks.

[mitchleblanc]

WOW

all of this warring going on after Adam was just asking about a reccomendation as to which rope he should look into buying.

The internet is a beautiful, beautiful thing.

[cory]

Adam,

I suggest Beal. They have the best overall specs, and are very durable. The price isn't as good as it used to be (they come from France, and with world economics now, the US ropes are cheaper) but still very reasonable.

They stretch like crazy and quickly recover, which spells doom for the sheath if you bounce around on a TR, but it makes for nice soft landings on bolts, and takes reduces the impact on shoddy (eh, spelling police) trad placements. Hangdogging can be tougher since pulling back up to the last bolt is a bit farther. So it may or may not be what you're looking for.

Elongation can be worrysome, though if you're pulling a lip that is above a slab.

I've had a Beal TopGun and had to retire it only because it was old nylon, and that's the recommendation -the performance was still excellent. ( I did have to cut off one end after the first year, as it got frayed around a lip TRing though.) I believe they only make it with a dry treatment now, wich is given to the sheath and core. So if you do any ice this is a good choice. It also does wonders for rope drag and abrasion resistance.
Cheers,
C

[Guest]

is that Goodman??

thanks for the advice... i'm now thinking i might get doubles instead of a single. i led a lot of last year on doubles and really liked it.... just don't know that many people who can belay with them... maybe i should just get both a single and doubles if only i could afford that..

[martha]

doubles kick ass for some faces in welsford, but suck upper tier, exfoliated, minkey etc where a single rope is easier, and more practical since the climbs go straight up. a single is also necessary for Kamouraska, st. andrews etc etc. I'd get a single and add doubles later on.

You are right about people belaying with them, but it just takes practice. Don't work your hardest projects with a new belayer, but i'm sure they'll catch on quickly on easier terrain.

[Guest]

anyone else with a recommendation?