Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe
Dom wrote:theriault wrote:Mt Doug
Pas D'Flagossage 5.10a 40'/S(3)/T
FFA L.Gallant, M. Theriault 15/04/2012
Climb the pocketed line just below the big pine tree on the ledge at the base of "Sunset Boulevard"
3 of us climbed this route today and thought it was definitely harder than 10a. More like 10d we thought. I compare it to Power of Oatmeal that I've climbed recently (10c, short) and Pas D'Flag is harder..
theriault wrote:I still think its the FFA ist choice to put a grade on a new route
Dom wrote:theriault wrote:I still think its the FFA ist choice to put a grade on a new route
Perhaps it is the FFA's choice to put wathever grade he wants. But the FFA is also in the worst position to accurately grade a route as he has spent a considerable amount of time scrubbing it and knows where all the key holds are. Thus, making it a different ascent from a regular joe-blow who hops on it Onsight.
theriault wrote: ... it seem to always be the same small crew hopping on the new routes...
Dom wrote:... FFA is also in the worst position to accurately grade a route as he has spent a considerable amount of time scrubbing it and knows where all the key holds are. ....
PeterA wrote:This route is currently equipped with fixed draws, and can be easily worked. Well worth getting on. Steep, pumpy, powerful, and totally unique.
HADES 5.13b 70'/M(7)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, S. Adamson Aug. 2012
FFA: P. Adamson. S. Adamson Aug 2012
In the back of the ampitheatre, on the left wall. Start up the left leaning ramp that leads to Flight of the Valkyries, but cut up off the ramp before FOTV, heading straight up a crack, past a pin, into a small alcove. From the alcove, place a few pieces, then fire straight up the overhanging headwall past 7 bolts.
-PJ
Dom wrote:PeterA wrote:This route is currently equipped with fixed draws, and can be easily worked. Well worth getting on. Steep, pumpy, powerful, and totally unique.
HADES 5.13b 70'/M(7)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, S. Adamson Aug. 2012
FFA: P. Adamson. S. Adamson Aug 2012
In the back of the ampitheatre, on the left wall. Start up the left leaning ramp that leads to Flight of the Valkyries, but cut up off the ramp before FOTV, heading straight up a crack, past a pin, into a small alcove. From the alcove, place a few pieces, then fire straight up the overhanging headwall past 7 bolts.
-PJ
How hard is the trad part on this? Are pieces mandatory? I might hop on it to get my as$ spanked! Last time I tried to climb a 13 in Welsford, Access Denied absolutely kicked my butt. How does this compare to AD?
Shawn B wrote:New route - Aug25/12
Friction Addiction - 5.9 G **
Gallery Wall - Start as per Waterwalk/Trundling and gain the first big ledge. Climb the back corner to the right of Waterwalk until the corner ends. Step right onto a small ledge and climb the low angle finger crack until it ends. Clip a bolt and make slab moves (crux) up and finish at Astroboy anchor.
FA S. Bethune, D. Hamel, T. Thibodeau Aug/2010
FFA S. Bethune, G. Hughes Aug/2012
coryhal wrote: but nothing beats a good sandbag!!
theriault wrote:Corn and KD 5.8 20'/S(2)/T
FFA F. Zambito, M. Thériault 11/09/12
Climb found on the far right of The Attic, about 20' right of Quiet just pass the huge log leaning against the cliff. This is a variation of an old top rope route formaly known as "The Hard and The Easy".
Dom wrote:A few of us climbed it and we all thought that it's definitely harder than 5.8. I think it's at least a 5.10-, so 5.10a sounds ok. If you're a 5.8 climber and get on this route, you're gonna hate your life..
Also, I'll change the description for the new routes log as we took down that ''huge log leaning against the cliff''. It was in the way of the route.
theriault wrote:
Grade Police hits again![]()
but seriously, if the log was in the way, you probably made the route harder than supposed to be... to routes follows the bolts, no wandering necessary and no moves harder than 5.8 (Franca and I had totally diffrent beta on this and thought it to be faire at that grade).
theriault wrote: About it being scary... its a 20ft moderate sport climb.... if someone is afraid to lead this, they might need a few more top rope lessons....
Dom wrote:Who said anything about it being scary?
Dom wrote: If you're a 5.8 climber and get on this route, you're gonna hate your life.
theriault wrote:Corn and KD 5.8 20'/S(2)/T
FFA F. Zambito, M. Thériault 11/09/12
Climb found on the far right of The Attic, about 20' right of Quiet just pass the huge log leaning against the cliff. This is a variation of an old top rope route formaly known as "The Hard and The Easy".
PS.... This was Franca's first bolt job and FFA!!!
Andrew wrote:Interesting. I was explicitly scared into NOT installing bolts there and so didn't out of fear of chopping and evil insults.
I'm interested to know what the variation is, as you can either go straight up starting a little left or a little right and start right and go left and finish at the tree.
Interesting how my useless "stupid bouldering problem, not worthy of bolts" is now another route?
Feel free to explain why it's now OK to bolt twenty feet of "bouldering problem"?
Don't get me wrong, have at her. I haven't been on rock for nearly a year. Now there's bolts, I can go lead the route! YAY!
Dom wrote:I've never seen Ken Nichols in Welsford
I actually climbed with Ken Nichols in New Hampshire in the 1980's. I did not know his history at the time.
IanLingley wrote:I was climbing in New Hampshire and Maine over the last week and got a chance to climb with Ken. What a cool guy, running laps on the 10's and 11's and soloing all the 6's and 7's. Climbed with him all day, by far the nicest climber we encountered on the trip.
Dom wrote:Dom wrote:211. BULLWHIP DAYS 5.11b 60'/M(3)/R(2)
FA: M. Leblanc, G. Losier 1996
FFA: D. Caron, A. Dowding 2012.06.25
Technical face climbing right of Astroboy Direct. Start at the rap station at the base of Astroboy direct and traverse on a horizontal crack to get to a bolted face split by more horizontal cracks. Bring small cams for the horizontal cracks. Nothing bigger than a 0.75 BD was used on the FFA.
Note: Route was bolted by A. Morgan who is expecting a new family member anytime now.
As always let me know what you think about the grade. Guidebook said 11c but I think that may be a bit soft? Also, I was led to believe that this route was super clean but didn't find it clean enough to my liking so will be back to scrub it pretty soon! Until then, don't hesitate to hop on it but don't complain if you find it dirty
I cleaned this route thoroughly today and added fixe ring anchors. This route is a mix of bone machine and astroboy direct so it's grreat! Get on it people!
Adam I have your biners that were left on the anchor.
Adam wrote:Finally got around to getting on this yesterday. Definitely felt easier than when I top roped it. THanks for cleaning it up to an acceptable level DomI would agree with the grade of 11b. Great route - well protected, crux over gear but super clean falls! Get on it!
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