40m freestanding pillar anyone?

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40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby coryhal » Thu Feb 11, 2010 11:13 pm

Five of us skipped school and work today to establish one of new brunswick's best ice routes. Sorry i dont have any pictures with me but this thing is amasing, get in there soon! a real gem!

Truancy Falls – WI5+ 40M FFA: C. Hall, A. Kolos, L. Toron, G. Waugh Feb. /10

Truancy falls is a freestanding column found in by Parlee Brook. Take the lower approach, go past Hullholmes Falls, and enter the woods on the right side of the cabin, follow a stream bed to the route. Climb 30m of dead vertical, mushroomed, and chandeliered ice to the lip, another 10m of slab gets you to the trees. This route is rarely in , but when it is drop everything to climb it....one of New Brunswick’s best routes!!
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby chossmonkey » Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:20 am

Nice job!!

I hope someone got pics.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Adam » Fri Feb 12, 2010 12:24 pm

yah really where're the pics!?
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Matt Peck » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:50 pm

Sweet. I saw that sucker in the distance last year, but it was too late in the day to get on it. Nice job boys, It looked like a future classic!
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby andriy » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:01 pm

Thanks to Cory, Lucas, Graham and Paul for dragging me along.
It was a very special day for me - very thankful to have met such a great gang. Definitely hope to return to NB!!!

Although I don't have any pics of the eurostyle FA, here is a pic of the pillar (the top of which is foreshortened...)

cheers,
Andriy
P1010029.JPG

P1010028.JPG
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Stacey » Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:05 pm

SWeet work guys...can't wait to get on it!!!
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Paddlerx » Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:45 pm

Michel Martin did a perfect lead on Saturday w Bill Goobie seconding. stunning spot. a few pics/videos up of course.

Image

Image
Bill cleaning up
Image

Darrel got onboard as well for a climb
Image

even me....
Image

cheers.
don
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby *Chris* » Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:31 am

That's a stunning feature and some exceptional photos Don. Well done all.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Adam » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:26 am

wow that's awesome! makes me want to skip work!
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby chossmonkey » Mon Feb 15, 2010 12:18 pm

Nice shots.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Adam » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:45 pm

looks like some mixed potential there too, no? or is the rock complete flower?
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Paddlerx » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:55 pm

Adam wrote:looks like some mixed potential there too, no? or is the rock complete flower?


in my opinion the rock is conglomerate choss. in no way does it look like a safe mixed space.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby cory » Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:57 pm

fantastic find
great shots
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby anderfo » Wed Feb 24, 2010 2:32 pm

andriy wrote:Although I don't have any pics of the eurostyle FA, here is a pic of the pillar (the top of which is foreshortened...)

Hey what does "eurostyle FA" mean?

The pillar looks great. I hope it stays another week or two...
A bunch of photos
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby coryhal » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:18 pm

we climbed the pillar at the same time, one on the left, one on the right. i of course topped out 20 minutes sooner... getting the true ffa.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Paddlerx » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:24 pm

Went in and climbed across from Truency. It looks dangerous now. Top is severly sunbaked and has really thinned out. Bottm still looks fat but the top is dangerous in my opinion.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby chossmonkey » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:36 pm

That pillar will be quite spectacular when it collapses. Hopefully nobody will be anywhere near.


Folks should remember to treat pillars like that one as a dagger. It looks quite skinny compared to the length. With the temperature swings it is likely quite unstable.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Shawn B » Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:08 am

top out from steep climbing at the top of the pillar and slab to the trees was thin and hollow on sunday. if not toast from sun and warm yesterday rain tomorrow should do a good job on it. also...if you are up that drainage be thoughtful of what is above you. we encountered avalanche debris 12-18 inches deep over the established snowshoe trail on our way in in the morning and our tracks from the morning were covered by 18-24 inches of debris on the way out. there was only a few inches of snow that created this pile. calculate and consider if there is more snow available to slide. there were a few spots where the gully gets narrow where we saw evidence of slides.
Safety third!!!
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby Paddlerx » Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:20 am

Has anyone climbed the slab section that is just uphill about 100m or so on the left past Truency yet? Bill and I did a lead there that i estimate to be 40m WI3 or 3+. I assume its been climbed before but if not, its solid and well worth doing.
i have some pictures and will post later tonight.
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby climbnb » Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:36 pm

Paddlerx wrote:Has anyone climbed the slab section that is just uphill about 100m or so on the left past Truency yet? Bill and I did a lead there that i estimate to be 40m WI3 or 3+. I assume its been climbed before but if not, its solid and well worth doing.
i have some pictures and will post later tonight.


Yes, those have been done. As well as the gully to the right of those slabs. Documented by Joe Kennedy. They probably have already been done before that as well! It's hard to say.
This is the first year that Truancy has ever touced down....folks have been eyeing that for years.
Here are a couple of pics.....
Image
Image
Dee
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Re: 40m freestanding pillar anyone?

Postby climbnb » Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:38 pm

climbnb wrote:
Paddlerx wrote:Has anyone climbed the slab section that is just uphill about 100m or so on the left past Truency yet? Bill and I did a lead there that i estimate to be 40m WI3 or 3+. I assume its been climbed before but if not, its solid and well worth doing.
i have some pictures and will post later tonight.


Yes, those have been done. As well as the gully to the right of those slabs. Documented by Joe Kennedy. They probably have already been done before that as well! It's hard to say.
This is the first year that Truancy has ever touced down....folks have been eyeing that for years.
Here are a couple of pics.....
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1 ... =578342320
ttp://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=18 ... =578342320
Dee
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