Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe

Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby NB_Gecko » Thu May 22, 2008 8:03 am

Was out for a hike today before work, and found to areas side by side that look virtuely untouched.
If I were sitting on the rock with my feet down it, my nack would be to Lily Lake.

If someone can tell me what trail it was off of... You win. I'll clean it and stuff for you.

If it's untouched, I'll have new pride in coming to "work" early and leaving late. I'll hug it and call it my baby. If no-one "claims" it in a few days I'm taking my gear out to work and cleaning it.

It looks like some pretty sweet rock, with a decent amount of places to put pro.
I'll put the word out more when I estabish some stuff.

Crosssing my fingers that it can be my lil' project.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby motanb » Thu May 22, 2008 4:46 pm

is it near the south end of the park close to the highway?
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
motanb
 
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:26 am
Location: Saint John, NB

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Shawn B » Fri May 23, 2008 8:32 am

If you are looking for things to climb in Rockwood, I can get you a copy of the orienteering map for the park. It shows absolutely everything in great detail from a 3 foot boulder.
Safety third!!!
Shawn B
 
Posts: 439
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2005 1:36 pm

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby NB_Gecko » Fri May 23, 2008 9:56 am

Motanb: The high wat is close to Rockwood through and through (pretty much). It's close to the crown st. exit. at the south end of the park. The closest lake to it is Lily Lake

Shawn: Thanks for the offer, but I have plenty of orienteering maps here. This area of climbing I was talking about doesn't show up on them, and is beyong the "boulder" area by Lily lake.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Adam » Fri May 23, 2008 10:25 am

maybe you could pinpoint it on google maps??

http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&ll=45.2 ... 8&t=h&z=16

i think all the stuff down there is pretty low angle?? there's definitely some little outcrops here and there but not sure worth developing.

take some pics!
User avatar
Adam
 
Posts: 1105
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 8:39 pm

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby NB_Gecko » Fri May 23, 2008 11:01 am

You pretty much were above it with that link.
It runs along side of that dead end street.
I'll take some pics of the stuff, and areas that I'm seeing later on.

In terms of developing I would most likely be putting in some anchors. Since there's no "R.A.D" trees around the top. And maybe put in a couple sport bolts. Nothing too heavy.

The area(s) would be more of a weekend warrior or a quick fix for climbing addiction kind of thing. Not really a place for projects.

In terms of vertical?... not extreme. Trad_reborn is right. Mostly low grade stuff. But a good place for easy bouldering and fairly easy trad practice.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby martha » Fri May 23, 2008 11:07 am

How High is it? does is actually need anchors or can it just be bouldered?

I thought that Andrew Martin had developed some stuff in there? I dunno.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby NB_Gecko » Fri May 23, 2008 2:21 pm

Not very high. Some spots are boulder-able, but it varies along the entire area.

It doesn't look very developed, I know about the little hills by the duck pond and camp grounds at the south end. But there ones run off a trail near the newly built pavillion.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Adam » Sat May 24, 2008 3:40 pm

NB_Gecko wrote:It runs along side of that dead end street.
I'll take some pics of the stuff, and areas that I'm seeing later on.


kinda sounds like the old blasted cliff that actually already has half a dozen 2 bolt routes on it.
User avatar
Adam
 
Posts: 1105
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 8:39 pm

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby NB_Gecko » Sat May 24, 2008 4:25 pm

trad_reborn wrote:
NB_Gecko wrote:It runs along side of that dead end street.
I'll take some pics of the stuff, and areas that I'm seeing later on.


kinda sounds like the old blasted cliff that actually already has half a dozen 2 bolt routes on it.



Wasn't wearing my glasses... but it looked pretty virgin.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Andrew » Sun May 25, 2008 10:03 am

Thanks for the credit, but I simply have climbed Rockwood by the duck pond quite often in my early days and in the past few years I have written a simple online guidebook for that one cliff area. I named things the way I saw them. No one else had done this so I did.

As far as developing, nope. That would probably be S. Adamson and others that he knows. It's a great spot for locals to learn basics and get a quick fix in when they can't get to Welsford. There are a number of very difficult routes (mid 10s). I think some of my friends and I have climbed pretty much every possible line on that little cliff there.

martha wrote:How High is it? does is actually need anchors or can it just be bouldered?

I thought that Andrew Martin had developed some stuff in there? I dunno.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby STeveA » Mon May 26, 2008 6:40 am

There are a number of cliffs in the park that have been "developed" over the years. I think all of the bolts were placed by me at the request of the park. You should check with Kevin Watson before placing bolts in Rockwood Park. He is the director of the recreation in the park and is very agreeable to climbing, but he should be consulted first. I think you will find that he would be happy to have more routes available unless there is some conflicting reason.
You are, therefore I am. That is the question....
User avatar
STeveA
 
Posts: 570
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:07 am

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Andrew » Tue May 27, 2008 9:13 pm

If there is more roped-in climbing available @ Rockwood Park, someone please post explicit instructions on how to get to them.

Andrew
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Chris » Sat May 31, 2008 2:06 pm

THis sounds a lot like the area off the trails that lead to the lookout that has views of Lily Lake and beyond to Courtney Bay. The area is pretty littered with glass but with a little TLC it may be climbable.
User avatar
Chris
 
Posts: 53
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 6:29 pm
Location: Saint John

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Adam » Sat May 31, 2008 2:30 pm

ah yes, i recall that spot... down below the lookout eh? i think there might be some bouldering there too.
User avatar
Adam
 
Posts: 1105
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 8:39 pm

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby NB_Gecko » Sat May 31, 2008 3:36 pm

hell no its not the look out. Though there may be some pretty basic bouldering there, it's all blasted.
Ill put in the GPS coordinates for the climbing, and some other stuff in Rockwood park.

I won't put the climbing by the duck pond though.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby motanb » Sat May 31, 2008 4:35 pm

is this palce on a well used trail close to the highway? near the foster thurston exit?
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
motanb
 
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:26 am
Location: Saint John, NB

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Adam » Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:16 am

how about you take some pictures for all to see!? :)
User avatar
Adam
 
Posts: 1105
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 8:39 pm

Re: Possible New Climbing at Rockwood

Postby Andrew » Sat Aug 23, 2008 8:44 am

This thread seems to have died.

Please help us out with directions. I'll go check it out as soon as directions are posted.

PS: I'm sending my PDF formatted guidebook for Rockwood Duck Pond climbing to Fred soon. I don't think I did that yet and I've had it created for nearly a year now.

Andrew
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis


Return to New Brunswick

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 32 guests

cron