New Routes

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Re: New Routes

Postby Stacey » Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:52 pm

sounds like it's time for a new edition :D
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Re: New Routes

Postby Dom » Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:07 am

So much rock, so little time
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Re: New Routes

Postby theriault » Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:40 am

We are more than likely over 200 new routes! and lets not forget all the new ICE routes, just throwing this out there, why not put the Ice guide in the next rock guide???
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Re: New Routes

Postby *Chris* » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:03 am

Fred wrote:Current count for new routes in New Brunswick since guidebook.

Kingston 30
Cedar Point 15
Welsford 40
Sunnyside 23
Greenlaw 6
Hampton Marsh 5
Gondola Point 2
Bald Hill 41
Loch Lomond 11
Mt Douglas 3

TOTAL = 176
There are about 6-7 lines at Red Rock Mountain that Erick, myself, you, and a few others developed a few years back.
Stacey wrote:sounds like it's time for a new edition :D

That will be quite a handful of work for a single person to take on and do a quality job.
And I know that there are probably over a dozen more that have not yet been recorded.
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Re: New Routes

Postby Dom » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:16 am

I vote that the next edition drops the weird FA/FFA thing.

Who cares if someone made it up a route on TR, really. So I think we should just put FA: Joe Blow 2011.09.06 in the description and the FA will be for the first free ascent like everywhere else in the world.
If a route had been and aid climb for a long time before it became a free climb (i.e. Vagina/J'ai volé ta blonde) then we can put it in the description. ''Had been previously aid climbed by John Doe in 1886''

Eliminating the FA/FFA thing will also put to rest the: ''It's been climbed before...''
If it hasn't seen a ground-up ascent sans fall than it's never been climb period.

I understand the FA/FFA thing with big walls, but NB has crags, no big walls.

Anyways this is my opinion, not gospel. :mrgreen:
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Re: New Routes

Postby theriault » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:26 am

Dom wrote:I vote that the next edition drops the weird FA/FFA thing.

+1
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Re: New Routes

Postby Fred » Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:22 pm

New route today at Upper Tier. It's not the best route out there but it's another route nonetheless.

276.1. RÉCHAUFFEMENT 5.9 60'/S(7)/R(2)
FA: F.Bérubé 2011.09.16
FFA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault, L.Gallant 2011.09.17
At the right enf of Upper Tier there is an 'evil' looking area of loose rock that forms an arch. Climb the right side of the arch past a series of bolts that traverse left over the arch. Follow bolts to a bolted rap station. The third bolt is an awkward spot but was dictated by poor rock quality.



Also bolted Hitchhiker (old project) today in the Attic and spent alot of time cleaning it. I didn't have a belayer so please stay off until I can get back there and send it. The route is 90'/S(10)/R(2) and stick-clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. This is a great line and will be a nice addition to that sport wall.

thx

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Re: New Routes

Postby cory » Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:48 pm

You make it sound so appealing!
Fred wrote:New route today at Upper Tier. It's not the best route out there but it's another route nonetheless.
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Re: New Routes

Postby Fred » Sun Sep 18, 2011 8:16 pm

It's a climb it if you are there and nothing else better to do kinda route. LOL
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Routes

Postby theriault » Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:41 am

Its not that bad of a route!
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Re: New Routes

Postby Fred » Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:36 pm

New FFA today.

Marty flashed this route today and Stacey did all the crux moves on TR. It was a sending day!!

Downgraded to 5.11b but grade needs to be confirmed. Have at er.


241. HITCHHIKER 5.11b 80'/S(10)/R(2)
FA: T.Anderson 1997
FFA: F.Bérubé, M.Thériault 2011.09.26
This is the free ascent of previously established TR project (see guidebook). Climb up the face at the far left end of the Attic. Technical and thin moves off the start to easier climbing. Gets pumpy towards the top. Stick-clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended and can be done on lower off from Joint Venture or 8 Four 7.
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Re: New Routes

Postby theriault » Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:00 pm

Fred wrote:Marty flashed this route today and Stacey did all the crux moves on TR. It was a sending day!!


Fred, your making me feel like a superstar...bahaha
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Re: New Routes

Postby Dom » Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:30 pm

theriault wrote:Fred, your making me feel like a superstar...bahaha


Pornstar Marty hehe

Fred wrote:Downgraded to 5.11b but grade needs to be confirmed. Have at er.


Man I can't believe it only goes at 5.11. I haven't seen it since you bolted/cleaned but by looking at it, I always thought the start would go in the 5.12 range.

Anyways good job guys!
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Re: New Routes

Postby Fred » Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:43 pm

Let's wait for a grad confirmation. :)

It'd definitely much easier than Montezuma's. Comparable to Bone Machine maybe?
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Re: New Routes

Postby Stacey » Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:31 pm

You guys rock'd it today! Nice work!
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Re: New Routes

Postby aaronhart » Thu Sep 29, 2011 11:03 pm

at cedar point i cleared some pesky cedar trees and bushes on climbers left. farthest left climb. i would also like to put in a two bolt anchor between the farthest two anchor spots. this would open up another great top rope climbing route. love the climbing there its so fun and a great place to take people to enjoy there first out door experience. thank you earth.
Grab your gear and head on out!!! "warren miller"
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Re: New Routes

Postby coryhal » Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:50 pm

there are also 10 new routes that ian lingley put up in milford, and a bunch of sweet boulders, check it out.

http://mountainproject.com/v/green-head-cove/107157856

ps: dont be jenga is a sick line....probably harder than farewell to arms!
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Re: New Routes

Postby Stacey » Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:07 pm

WOW - looks like some pretty sweet routes! I can't wait to check it out - hopefully before this season ends!!! anyone have some pics?
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Re: New Routes

Postby coryhal » Mon Oct 10, 2011 7:28 pm

Magical mystery tour – 5.12a s(6)/r(2) 60 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley Oct. 2011

Locate 3 left trending bolts near the lowest part of the main face, just left of shooting monkeys in a barrel. Climb up and left , then back right to a cool flake near the top.


a few of the routes have finally got their second and third ascents.... a few grades should probably be adjusted:

hog9-5.7
shooting monkeys in a barrel-5.12c
regeneration-5.12a
bebop-5.10b
rock steady-5.11a
mcpeck arete-5.12b

the rest i think are accurate .
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Re: New Routes

Postby Dom » Mon Oct 10, 2011 10:02 pm

coryhal wrote:Magical mystery tour – 5.12a s(6)/r(2) 60 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley Oct. 2011

Locate 3 left trending bolts near the lowest part of the main face, just left of shooting monkeys in a barrel. Climb up and left , then back right to a cool flake near the top.


a few of the routes have finally got their second and third ascents.... a few grades should probably be adjusted:

hog9-5.7
shooting monkeys in a barrel-5.12c
regeneration-5.12a
bebop-5.10b
rock steady-5.11a
mcpeck arete-5.12b

the rest i think are accurate .


Bald hill is rad. I'm going back very soon! It's southern facing so should be warm this time of year people!
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Re: New Routes

Postby Greg » Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:23 pm

Dom wrote:
coryhal wrote:Magical mystery tour – 5.12a s(6)/r(2) 60 feet FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley Oct. 2011

Locate 3 left trending bolts near the lowest part of the main face, just left of shooting monkeys in a barrel. Climb up and left , then back right to a cool flake near the top.


a few of the routes have finally got their second and third ascents.... a few grades should probably be adjusted:

hog9-5.7
shooting monkeys in a barrel-5.12c
regeneration-5.12a
bebop-5.10b
rock steady-5.11a
mcpeck arete-5.12b

the rest i think are accurate .


Bald hill is rad. I'm going back very soon! It's southern facing so should be warm this time of year people!

I agree with Dom. Bald Hill is fantastic and Deception Dyke is awesome!
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Re: New Routes

Postby Leehammer » Wed Oct 12, 2011 7:54 am

I totally agree. I'm confused as to why it doesn't get more traffic. It is very unique sport climbing.
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Re: New Routes

Postby Fred » Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:53 pm

Cory:

Is Magical Mystery Tour the same route that was previously listed as a project in the New Routes Log?

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Re: New Routes

Postby Fred » Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:41 pm

Marty and I finished "the" new route today at Mt Doug. The biggest baddest route since "Bone Machine".

DOG FIGHT 5.11a G 100'/M(9)/R(2)
FA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
FFA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
This route is found on the tallest part of the main cliff 30 feet left of where the approach trail meets the wall. Start in a short chimney behind a large detached block. Protect with natural gear to reach out and clip a bolt then continue past a series of powerfull moves around and over a cool flake. Continue past another bolt to gain a nice rest ledge and follow the small corners right pluggin natural gear (runners recomended here) until you are standing underneath a large and wide roof feature. Clip a bolt to gain the large roof then traverse left for 15ft until you can get into the nice left facing dihedral. From here continue straight up past bolts to top and some awesome features. A thought provoking climb with fantastic varried climbing. An instant hit!


IMG_5909.jpg



Enjoy!!
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Re: New Routes

Postby coryhal » Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:59 pm

fred, it is a completly new route and is not the unnamed listed project
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Re: New Routes

Postby Greg » Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:37 am

Fred wrote:Marty and I finished "the" new route today at Mt Doug. The biggest baddest route since "Bone Machine".

DOG FIGHT 5.11a G 100'/M(9)/R(2)
FA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
FFA: M.Thériault, F.Bérubé 2011.10.16
This route is found on the tallest part of the main cliff 30 feet left of where the approach trail meets the wall. Start in a short chimney behind a large detached block. Protect with natural gear to reach out and clip a bolt then continue past a series of powerfull moves around and over a cool flake. Continue past another bolt to gain a nice rest ledge and follow the small corners right pluggin natural gear (runners recomended here) until you are standing underneath a large and wide roof feature. Clip a bolt to gain the large roof then traverse left for 15ft until you can get into the nice left facing dihedral. From here continue straight up past bolts to top and some awesome features. A thought provoking climb with fantastic varried climbing. An instant hit!


IMG_5909.jpg


Congrats gentlemen! Nicely done. Looking forward to leading this one!


Enjoy!!
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Re: New Routes

Postby theriault » Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:41 am

Thanks Greg! The only thing missing on the rout is traffic! Everyone should get on it before the end of the season!
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Re: New Routes

Postby Leehammer » Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:17 pm

Is Dog Fight the only route not listed in the main Mount Douglas - East face thread?
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Re: New Routes

Postby Leehammer » Sun Oct 23, 2011 5:14 pm

It's a pretty sweet route. This whole cliff is awesome. Seems like there could be some more good long ones going up the main section. It will only get better with more traffic, too.

the slabs are fun too. I found the ones graded 5.7 harder than the ones graded 5.8.

Great work and thanks to all who contributed.
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Re: New Routes

Postby Joe » Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:24 pm

I thoroughly enjoyed Les Dalles, it's suburb rock. Thanks to all who worked at developing it. My 16 year old daughter Madeline had her first lead on Le Jardinier, quite exciting for her. I cleaned and lead a direct route starting at Le Jardinier and finishing on Busy Bee, a rather obvious direct trad line. Start up Jardinier, climb up over the small overhang towards the stump, and continue towards Busy Bees' final crack. All trad, but the microcam placement before the stump isn't great. It's around 5.6. I may have not been the first person to climb this because I heard that a couple of guys soloed all over this face earlier.
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