another new route - gondola point

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another new route - gondola point

Postby PeterA » Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:05 pm

Deerjaw 5.10+ 30'/M(2)/T
Clip the first two bolts of my mother is half motorboat then traverse left to the overhanging face and continue up it past two more bolts. Trad gear can be put in at the top if you wish. It is recommended that you set up the anchor from above first, so you don't have to do the awkward dirty topout.

This route is really fun! Some cool big moves on an overhanging face which is surprisingly pumpy for it's length

-PJ
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Re: another new route - gondola point

Postby PeterA » Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:28 pm

woops, forgot to put in

FA:P.Adamson, L.Toron
FFA:P.Adamson, C.Hall

-PJ
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Re: another new route - gondola point

Postby Fred » Sun Dec 07, 2008 4:32 pm

PJ: should this be M(4) then?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: another new route - gondola point

Postby Fred » Sun Dec 07, 2008 4:34 pm

so far there are 56 new routes recorded since the last guidebook was published
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: another new route - gondola point

Postby PeterA » Sun Dec 07, 2008 4:41 pm

yeah, i suppose it should be M(4). I was only counting the two bolts on the new climb, but it makes more sense to include all the bolts.

-PJ
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Re: another new route - gondola point

Postby cory » Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:45 pm

:D :D :D YES!
Way to go PJ, Luke and (a different) Cory!
I've been waiting for someone to do this obvious line. Other than the large block (toaster/oven-microwave sized) right on the arete was there much cleaning necessary?
Can't wait until the spring!
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Re: another new route - gondola point

Postby PeterA » Mon Dec 08, 2008 4:40 pm

there was a lot of cleaning to be done :P but we trundled pretty much every loose block and rid the route of lichen, so everything left on the route now should be solid

-PJ
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