Eagles Nest Bolts???

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Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby stoneseeker » Thu May 13, 2010 12:20 pm

Hey guys,

Rumney kicked @$$. I (previously strictly a passionate pebble wrestler) may have seen the light as to why people rave about using all those ropes and harnesses and other awkward things that hinder your climbing.

So, first thing I did upon my return was head over to Eagles Nest to see just how trashy this place was, and to lead some of the sport routes that had double stars.
My question is, where are the bolts?? All the bolts from boomin' system to Guillotine were there, but as soon as you went around the corner to do some more climbing the bolts were no where to be seen. Specifically, "Gully Wall" and "Evening Wall Direct" (the one I was most excited about.)

Were the bolts taken out due to rust or something?? Are we allowed to replace them? If so, someone wanna come bolt Evening Wall direct with me?

There. the end of questions.

Oh, and as a quick aside...
After climbing in Rumney, which is (compared to the many west coast destinations I've been to) relatively close to here, I have to say I am mighty proud of the scene here in NS. I jumped on some routes and boulder problems that honestly felt quite inflated on the grade compared to what I'm used to here and out west. I actually had skin at the end of the day, and the climbing was easy by comparison to our minimalist and cryptic style of granite here. Nova Scotia climbers (thats you) are tough as nails. The rock in Rumney and Pawtuckaway was soft to touch, full of features and jugs (unlike here) and it was easy to onsight stuff that I felt was above my level.
In summary: Climbing in Nova Scotia with Nova Scotians has made me a better climber, and I felt confident to say to the Americans I met that this Island is full of some serious tough crushers, (even if they bicker amongst themselves a lot.) :wink:
~ Lukey
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Re: Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby tracstarr » Fri May 14, 2010 3:07 pm

most bolts were chopped about 3-4 years ago as they were in really bad shape, some even pulled out by hand. Some were replaced, but not all. I believe all the top anchors were replaced, but time and resources didn't permit finishing the job, and I guess it still hasn't.
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Re: Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby Scooter » Fri May 14, 2010 3:19 pm

Shoot Climb Nova Scotia an email. If they can't provide a body, they may at least reimburse the cost. climbnovascotia at gmail.com
Scott.R
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Re: Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby pulldown » Fri May 14, 2010 6:50 pm

Hey Luke

I might be able to help get that done. I'm just looking into what we have for hardware and bits and trying to find out what routes still need to get done. Also we need to get a battery replaced which i will try to get done next week. If you are interested in hauling in gear than i will help retrobolt the lines.

I haven't been out there in over 10 years so i don't know what kind of shape the crag is in, but if people are still going there then the bolts should be replaced.

Todd
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Re: Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby stoneseeker » Fri May 14, 2010 10:18 pm

ah. thats kinda what I expected...
yeah Todd, I'd be into that.
I'll haul the gear out there with you if you can get it. I'd also like to see this oh-so-infamous G-Spot place with you guys some time too. Is it far from where you and Scoot and I went scrubbing that time??
anyway, I'll be free Tuesday on, give me a call and we'll go jump on some fun lines with drill in hand.
~ Lukey
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Re: Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby Lucien762 » Sun Jun 06, 2010 10:25 am

Just curious if these routes have been re-bolted yet. I'm new to sport climbing and figured it would be a decent place to start (but sketchy bolts may not be much of a confidence booster).
Thanks,
Lucien
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Re: Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby mick » Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:46 am

Nothing has been rebolted at Eagle's Nest yet.

If you are new to sport climbing you should go to the GSpot in Mosquodoboit. Take the 357 HWY out of Mosquodoboit at the RCMP station, then take your second right over a concrete and steel bridge. Drive to the end of the road and park. Walk straight into the woods along a logging road for 10 min until you see a small rock cairn on the right. Follow the right path for 5 minutes, then turn left at the hunting blind and walk uphill for 5 minutes and you're there.

5.6-5.11+ sport lines abound and the setting is much nicer than Eagle's Nest. Bring a bugnet.
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Re: Eagles Nest Bolts???

Postby Lucien762 » Sun Jun 06, 2010 3:44 pm

O.K. cool, maybe that's what ill do, we'll see what happens.
Thanks for the advise,
Lucien
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