New Route on Border Wall

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New Route on Border Wall

Postby Greg » Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:02 pm

A couple of weeks ago Stacey and I climbed a nice two pitch line at Border Wall and linked a third pitch on the final headwall. It is very likely that this line was done many years ago as there is a fixed pin on pitch 2. I did a bunch of cleaning on it a year ago and some more this summer. It's a fun line that protects well with a bit of every type of climbing. You'll find it just left of North of the Border and it tops out at the same ledge (pitch 2). We took the liberty of naming the route in the spirit of the long standing project on the left side of this wall (Up To Here It's A Joke).

It's All a Joke 5.6 G 160' / N / T
FA: Unknown
Pitch 1: Begin on the left side of Border Wall taking the line Up to Here It's a Joke. Follow this route to the first big ledge then rather then moving up over the unprotected face, step right and climb the left leaning flake to another ledge and crack system that tops out on a brushy ledge. Continue up low angle terrain and belay off a large spruce tree below a dihedral.
P1050309.JPG

Pitch 2: Move left around a large boulder and then climb up a corner system passing a fixed pin, topping out on another large ledge.
P1050332.JPG

From here two raps will get you to the ground or you can continue to the top of the cliff on any of the three routes on the final headwall. 
Attachments
P1050339.JPG
Pitch 3 - Vaccination Scar 5.5
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Re: New Route on Border Wall

Postby Fred » Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:43 pm

Nice! Those walls look alot bigger and less broken then I would expect. I've gota get up there and check out these routes. Do you think there is potential for more routes up there?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Route on Border Wall

Postby Greg » Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:15 am

Fred wrote:Nice! Those walls look alot bigger and less broken then I would expect. I've gota get up there and check out these routes. Do you think there is potential for more routes up there?

There is some potential but not as good as I had thought after first looking at it. We cleaned and top roped a route on the left side of the final headwall as well.
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Re: New Route on Border Wall

Postby Dom » Fri Sep 02, 2011 12:49 pm

Hey Greg, based on these pictures, it looks like you have a ropegun! :mrgreen:

Good work you 2, I'm looking forward to climb these. This is just left of the other multipitches you and Stacey put up on ADH or north of the border right?
So much rock, so little time
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Re: New Route on Border Wall

Postby Greg » Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:48 pm

Dom wrote:Hey Greg, based on these pictures, it looks like you have a ropegun! :mrgreen:

Good work you 2, I'm looking forward to climb these. This is just left of the other multipitches you and Stacey put up on ADH or north of the border right?

Roger that Dom! She's a machine and I don't mind having a ropegun either :wink:

As for the location of the route - it is about 10 or 15 feet left of NOTB on Border Wall.
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