Les petits phoques

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Les petits phoques

Postby Dom » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:19 am

So who has done this route in the last 2 years? I've been on it twice this season. (seconded the first time and led it yesterday). Anyways it's an awesome route but you never hear anyone talking about it. I think this route is a classic. It's pretty much 3 routes in 60 feet. Few things to consider if you are heading down there.

-This route is accessed by rappelling.
-Rap down with your climbing shoes. That way you won't have to tie boots to your harness.
- As you rap down clip a quickdraw in the 2nd bolt. You'll be happy you did especially if you're not 6' tall.
-Also on the rappel, stick clip the first bolt. The first few moves are hard and insecure. (no holds-SLAB)
-Bring a 0.3 for the 2nd piece. When you clip the 2nd bolt, you can back clean that 0.3. Would be a weird fall trying to clip the 2nd bolt without having a piece in after the first bolt
- The feet of the overhang might be a little wet, but don't worry about it. That move is in the arms anyways :mrgreen:

Also the sun hits it early in the morning so if you're camping up at exfoliated. Warm up on Simpson and head down to Les petits phoques. It'll be in the sun!
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Les petits phoques

Postby theriault » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:53 am

Thanks for blowing everyone's onsight Dom! LOL Joke's aside, thanks for the info, I'll be on that next time!
Marty
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Re: Les petits phoques

Postby *Chris* » Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:13 am

Dom,
Was that the offwidth on Upper Down Home wall we watched you on? It was a good show!
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Re: Les petits phoques

Postby Dom » Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:11 am

*Chris* wrote:Dom,
Was that the offwidth on Upper Down Home wall we watched you on? It was a good show!


Hey Chris, glad I had you guys as spectators for me doing that ascent. I was definitely intimidated by the exposure up there so having you guys watching me from Cheekbone gave me an extra kick in the butt!

That route is Tercel tower. It was put up by Greg H. last year and is an awesome route too! He lent me his #4 and #5 for the climb. I only used the #5 in the off-width. It fit perfectly and I walked it up with me 3/4 of the way. I had never climbed an off-width before so I didn't know what to expect but turns out you can use features on the arête so I climbed it more like a lieback and an arête. People should get on it. (If they have a #5). It could also easily be toproped for those that don't own one. Just follow the trail that gets you above Waterfall wall and keep going to the tree above the off-width.

Now I wish I could change the thread name to Les Petits phoques and Tercel Tower. :mrgreen:
So much rock, so little time
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