Anubus and the crack

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Anubus and the crack

Postby john » Thu Sep 23, 2010 9:36 pm

Many people, myself included, have been chatting online and in person, about anubus and the crack to the right (whos name i dont know), lets call it "crack" for discussions sake. Most of whom have not climbed, let alone lead either route.

Today I went down and climbed both, more or less onsight (ie I saw one rapping from the other) and did them back to back for comparision sake.

I really don't care about either route on a personal level, but here are my mostly unbiased observations based on an in person onsight evaluation (my opinion follows, in my next list hahhahahah for anyone who wants to personally attack me ;) ).

Facts, more of less

1) I did both routes starting from the stumps, as they are in the way, they should be cut to the ground if anyone has a chainsaw. Starting from the slab itself adds no difficulty, but maybe one more easy move in the case of anubus.
2) Both routes are about 12 ft long after the 5.0 slab leading to the cut stumps.
3) Both routes lead to the same point where they join the existing older route (sweet patatoe pie?)
4) Both routes go onsight on gear, the crack maybe at 5.7, Anubus maybe 10b (one move)
5) On Anubus the piton may be the reason there is a perfect pod for your fingers at mid height
6) You cannot (except maybe the first piece), use gear in the crack to climb anubus, without going out of your way.
7) However, there is sufficient gear on anubus to climb it without any fixed hardware. It is far less intimidating then puf the magic dragon, its neighbor, which I also climbed today, but is a couple grades harder.

Here is my opinion

1) Both routes are fun varations, key word variations, they are so short neither are worth naming, they join the existing route after a few feet. Dont get me wrong I enjoyed them, but they are not independent lines worth argueing over.
2) Anubus goes on gear and solid gear, but if you blow the one move above the lowest cam you might skim the slab and for sure hit the stump (which is easly resolved). I think it can be climbed safely once the stump is gone.
3) I don't think bolts on anubus are in keeping with welsford style, when they were put in they were one shade of grey, but after the tree was removed they became another shade of grey.
4) I like the idea of reevaluting a bolted route (especially one people dont agree with), after an event changes the character of the climb (cutting the tree, rockfall, a fracture opening up, aid climbing altering the rock etc.)
5) I don't like it when people chop routes without talking to the fa'er in person (if its possible).
6) I hate it when people don't cover their chopped messes, at the time of chopping, if you have time to chop do it right immediatly, don't leave it for a while and make people deal with your decision. If you don't have time or don't know how to fix it dont chop the bolts.
6) I like that people care enough to argue.

john
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Re: Anubus and the crack

Postby Dom » Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:19 pm

john wrote:1) Both routes are fun varations, key word variations, they are so short neither are worth naming, they join the existing route after a few feet. Dont get me wrong I enjoyed them, but they are not independent lines worth argueing over.


From what I've gathered there are two crack variations. One of them called ''roundup'' starts in the crack and merges left with Pass the Moonshine. The other one is not just a variation and is called ''October Sky''. It's a full independant line and is listed in the new routes log.
I've led the 3 of 'em (roundup, october sky and Anubis) and IMHO October Sky is the nicest of the 3.


As for the rest, I agree with you!
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Anubus and the crack

Postby Adam » Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:43 am

john wrote:4) I like the idea of reevaluting a bolted route (especially one people dont agree with), after an event changes the character of the climb (cutting the tree, rockfall, a fracture opening up, aid climbing altering the rock etc.)
5) I don't like it when people chop routes without talking to the fa'er in person (if its possible).
6) I hate it when people don't cover their chopped messes, at the time of chopping, if you have time to chop do it right immediatly, don't leave it for a while and make people deal with your decision. If you don't have time or don't know how to fix it dont chop the bolts.
6) I like that people care enough to argue.

john


4/5 - the route was discussed on this forum. the community consensus was that they were no longer appropriate with the tree gone. Steve didn't agree but I took action based on the consensus.
6(#1) - as i said before, i forgot my putty that day and have full intentions of fixing this properly. i didn't want to drag the hammer up there a second time if i didn't need to. Had I known I was going to incite your hatred via two small holes in a piece of rock that will be camouflaged in due time, well, I prob still would have done it at the time ;) However, perhaps you should be directing this 'hatred' at the work done on Sticky Fingers as it seems there was no intention to cover the hole left there.

In future, as I said in the other thread, I think any chopping action intentions should be posted here, discussed, and in the least consensus reached if not agreement with all parties. Ideally it could also include interested parties jointly inspecting the bolts on site (not necessarily on sight).

it's about as democratic as we can get. unless of course you want to elect me president of climbing in new brunswick, the campaign for which i'll start taking donations as of now.
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Re: Anubus and the crack

Postby john » Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:12 am

Adam nothing personal, dont think I meant only chopped bolts on anubus, also sticy fingers, ddt, teenage arete, thin air in conway whitehorse and everywhere this happens. Like I said I think bolts should go in some cases, I was just pointing out the fact the holes often turn into a mess, particualrly old steel bolts which oxidize and leave rust streaks down the rock. With stainless this wont happen as bad, if at all. cheers
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Re: Anubus and the crack

Postby Adam » Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:37 am

john wrote:Adam nothing personal, dont think I meant only chopped bolts on anubus, also sticy fingers, ddt, teenage arete, thin air in conway whitehorse and everywhere this happens. Like I said I think bolts should go in some cases, I was just pointing out the fact the holes often turn into a mess, particualrly old steel bolts which oxidize and leave rust streaks down the rock. With stainless this wont happen as bad, if at all. cheers


and i agree with you - they make a mess. it did seem you were singling out anubis, however it seems you spread your hatred out evenly across this great land.
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Re: Anubus and the crack

Postby PeterA » Fri Sep 24, 2010 6:15 pm

Adam wrote:However, perhaps you should be directing this 'hatred' at the work done on Sticky Fingers as it seems there was no intention to cover the hole left there.


I've never quite been sure what you're talking about on this one. Cory covered his hole. Perhaps the mess your seeing is the original bolt you took out.

-PJ
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Re: Anubus and the crack

Postby coryhal » Fri Sep 24, 2010 6:48 pm

thanks pj
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Re: Anubus and the crack

Postby Adam » Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:45 pm

PeterA wrote:
Adam wrote:However, perhaps you should be directing this 'hatred' at the work done on Sticky Fingers as it seems there was no intention to cover the hole left there.


I've never quite been sure what you're talking about on this one. Cory covered his hole. Perhaps the mess your seeing is the original bolt you took out.

-PJ


was after the fact then. i led it this spring and it had not been covered at that point. glad to hear it has been since.
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