Quiet

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe

Quiet

Postby Fred » Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:22 pm

I think someone chipped the holds on Quiet. It felt even more difficult and painful than the last time I tried it 5+ years ago.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: Quiet

Postby martha » Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:30 pm

Quiet is one of the biggest sandbags in Welsford. I love it though. Nothing like some crimpy/balancy to make my day. Also, just want to mention that I am thankful for small girly hands......a hold that Fred can barely use is a lovely deep 3 finger pocket with a thumb catch for me!. :mrgreen:

I've got the moves dialed but ran out of gas and skin before a send. Next time!!!!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: Quiet

Postby Andrew » Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:02 am

re: chipping holds

I didn't chip any holds; however, last year, I got on this route and midway through I grabbed a nice finger pinch and it broke off as soon as I put weight on it.

That is a pretty hard route. What should it be graded?
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Quiet

Postby martha » Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:27 pm

The guide says 11a I think but Quiet is harder than Montezumas which is graded 11c, (but is probably a 12a in real life), Farewell to Arms is a pretty solid 12a and Quiet is also harder than that (all this in my opinion) so I'd guess that Quiet is 12b or 12c.

I didn't see any broken holds on the route, Fred was making a crack about his age and weakness. Where in relation to the first or second bolt was this hold that broke? The route goes straight up under the bolts and stays that way to the top.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: Quiet

Postby Andrew » Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:35 pm

Hold was in the last 1/2 of the route. Can't help any further than that.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Quiet

Postby martha » Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:04 am

thankfully the last half of the route is the 'easy part'. so I don't think it made any difference. I didn't notice any anyways.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: Quiet

Postby Dom » Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:05 am

I think Quiet is a V4 boulder problem and I don't recommend a big weight difference in belayers to do it...

It's an awesome problem though!
So much rock, so little time
User avatar
Dom
 
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Oromocto West

Re: Quiet

Postby martha » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:40 pm

Yeah, V4 or V5 sound about right. Harder if you have to stop and clip bolts though, and given that no one is likely to hike all the way up there with a crash pad for one problem, it will probably stay graded with the YDS as a route and not a problem.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....


Return to New Brunswick

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 68 guests

cron