NEW ROUTES COCHRANE LANE

3.1. OLD AGE ARETE 5.7 R 100'/N/T
FA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson 2009.05.24
FFA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson 2009.05.24
Start on the arete left of “Thrash and Crash”. Continue up and left for 100'. Very spicy with bad pro, big free standing flakes. Climbed ground up without any pre-inspection or cleaning. Good example of old school climbing. Really nice finish on clean exposed rock.

4.1. MIDDLE AGE ARRET 5.11c 60'/S(7)/R(2)
FA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson 2007.09.30
FFA: P.Adamson, C.Goodman 2007.09.30
Follow the bolted line just left and around the corner of Teenage Arete using the face and the arete.

12.1. ROADBLOCK 5.11 PG 50'/N/R(2)
FFA: J.Bowles, F.Berube 2009.04.19
Climb the shallow dihedral 20ft right of “Ride A Cock Horse” on Striated wall. Through the right part of a large roof and continue straight up to bolted rap station on top. A unique route with knee bars and small fiddly gear. When rapping down from the fixed bolt station angle to climber left on the slabby rock near Ride A cock horse to minimize drag when retrieving the rope.

12.2. COMMITED TO MEMORY 5.8 G 50'/N/R(2)
FFA: C.Richardson, T.Anderson 2008.05.01
Climb the arete directly left of Miramichi Trout Hunter on Striated wall. When rapping down from the fixed bolt station angle to climber left on the slabby rock near Ride A cock horse to minimize drag when retrieving the rope.

19.1. SPACE CADET 5.6 PG 80'/N/C
FA: F.Berube 2010.03.07
FFA: C.Hennigar, M.Thibodeau 2010.03.07
This climb is found approximately 20ft left of the opening to Golum's Cave. Start on top of a large block to step onto the slab above the large overhang close to the ground. Trend slightly right paralleling "Pursuit of Happiness". Follow the slab up the clean streak to eventually meet up with "Reindeer Land" just below the "roadrunner block".

78. PEER PRESSURE 5.12b
FFA: P.Adamson, C.Hall 2008.05.09
First free ascent of project. See guidebook.

84.1. LET FREEDOM RING 5.10 PG 150’/M(3)/R(2)
FFA: T.Anderson, C.Richardson 2008.05.29
This route is found in Pooh Corner. Shares same start as Grandpa’s Demise except continue up slab for ten more feet where one would break right up the face for Grandpa’s. Optional belay on slab before heading up the face. From the slab break right aiming for 3 bolts to finish at two bolt anchor with chain on top.

100.1. BAG-O-NUTS 5.8 R 80'/N/T
FFA: C.Goodman, L.Jonart 2008.04.27
This climb follows the shallow finger crack 5' left of Tit for Tat and 5' right of Baby Crack.

TERCEL TOWER 5.10 G 80'/N/T
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.05.14
This route follows the crack system in the center dihedral of Above Down Home Wall. Fun climbing, great moves, excellent protection on very clean granite. The route finishes with a 20 foot overhanging offwidth crack (crux) that requires a #4 or 5 to protect. Stunning line with great exposure and fabulous view from the top (especially at sunset).

105.1. THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT 5.11a X 80’/N/T
FA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson 2009
FFA: Cory Hall, Joe Kennedy May 2010
Found on above down home wall, 15 feet to the right of the central dihedral. Climb up the overhanging wall up a series of diagonal sloping “ledges“, to a small corner, then up lower angled thin face to top. Very difficult and sparse gear, established ground up with no pre-inspection. We may try to get some pins in to take the death factor out of it.

111.1. NORTH OF THE BORDER 5.5 PG 200'/N/T
FA: G. Hughes 2010.04.17
FFA: G. Hughes, M. Couturier, E. Couturier 2010.04.24
Pitch 1 - Climb Up, Up and Away at Border Wall. Continue straight up passing UUAA tree anchor through three short headwalls. Belay off Spruce tree on ledge. 100'
Pitch 2 - At the base of the ledge climb the crack/large flakes that begins near two closely spaced spruce trees. Mantle up to large picnic ledge. 60'
Pitch 3 - Move belay up to base of final headwall straight up from pitch 2. Begin on diagonal crack system just left of Poplar tree. Climb this system following the weakness to the top. There is also a slightly more difficult direct variation. 40'

111.2. VACCINATION SCAR 5.5 G 40' /N/T
FA: G. Hughes 2010.04.17
FFA: G. Hughes, M. Couturier, L. Toron, K. McLellan 2010.04.24
On final headwall of North of the Border climb the crack system with large flake just right of diagonal crack system.

111.3. TIERRA DEL FALCO 5.6 G 40' /N/T
FA: L. Toron, K. McLellan, G. Hughes 2010.04.24
FFA: L. Toron, K. McLellan, G. Hughes 2010.04.24
Start ten feet right of VS at the base of right facing corner. Climb up to gain vertical crack that leads to a ledge. Continue up trending slightly right to top.

137.1 5.9 FOR STYLE 5.9 G 90’/N/T
FA: C. Hall, L. Toron, K. McClellan 2009.10.03
FFA: C. Hall, L. Toron, K. McClellan 2009.10.03
Start between “5.8 For Style” and “Curried Recollection” bellow a small spruce tree. Climb face to finger crack then up the offwidth crack, cross “5.8 For Style” then up the leftmost finger crack. Finish up “5.8 For Style”.

139.1 THE TAXMAN COMMETH 5.9 G 90'/N/T
FA C Goodman & D Caron April 29/10
FFA C Goodan & D Caron April 30/10
(Minkey-King Arthurs Playground) From the ledge atop of Dash of Fall Memory (accessed by climbing Dash... or the 10 vertical feet of 5.0 with a large spruce and large pine growing out of it), climb the obvious hand crack as it trends leftward from the roof and thins to fingers a really fun, well protected 25'. Squeeze between the trees and continue up and left through easier terrain (an off-width with chockstones, low angle blocky section, and a final off-width) to top. Rap 20' to 'deja-vu ledge' (top of 5.8 for Style) then rap 90' to ground.

TRUNDLE FLAKES 5.10 PG 80'/m(1)/C
FA: J. Corey, F. Berube 2010
FFA: J. Corey, B. Turner 2010
Access from Pyramid area at Cochrane Lane
Found at the far left of pyramid wall, between Lady Dye and About a Rope. Climb onto a large ledge with several trees. From this ledge climb a crack past a bolt. Traverse left and up through large flakes to a tree.

141.1 THE LAST OF THE UNPLUCKED GEMS 5.7 G 90’ / N / T
FA: S. Couturier, G. Hughes 2008.10.18
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2008.10.18
Same start as Sweet Potato Pie. At the top of the slab make one move up right trending diagonal ramp then step left. Continue up and slightly left through a crack system and ledges between Sweet Potato Pie and About a Rope, finishing at a large ledge with mature spruce tree. Fun finish with exhilarating moves on 20’ vertical headwall.
V1 A slightly more direct start can be climbed by beginning at an 8 ft totem block just right of the alcove from About a Rope. Climb up the block, step right and then continue relatively straight up from there. This is also a nice direct start to Sweet Potato Pie.

145.1 OCTOBER SKY 5.8 PG 80’/N/N
FA: G.Hughes, S.Couturier 2008.10.05
FFA: G.Hughes, S.Couturier 2008.10.05
Climb the left facing dihedral just right of “Pass The Moonshine” to a ledge then step right and continue up a series of cracks and ledges. Finish above and right of “Pass The Moonshine” on a big ledge. Build a gear anchor just above the ledge.

Y-Knot 5.6 PG 40'/N/T
FA: Unknown
FFA: Unknown
This route climbs the rights side of the pyramid. Begin 10 feet right of Sarcophagus on big flakes. Head towards a small finger crack leading you to a series of cracks. The end is on an awesome layback. Finish at tree with cordelette.

169. COMRADES IN DESTINY 5.7 G 120'/N/T
FFA: C.Richardson, T.Anderson 2007
At the right end of Simpson Wall start up a clean streak to the left of a bolt seen from ground at 20ft. Climb the nice low angly cracks for 60 ft leading into a tree ledge system. One can either stop here for a belay or continue from here on some of the most gorgeous granite in welsford. From the tree ledge follow the obvious cracks/jugs 60 ft to the top. A nice flat ledge with belay tree that has tat and biners is the finish.

185.1. CHATTY CRACKS 5.10b G 100’/N/T
FFA: Cory Hall, Lucas Toron April/10
Found 15ft right of “The Crush”. Climb lichen cream cheese on dawn wall. Head straight up from the anchor, over some mossy ledges, then up a corner system. Climb stellar twin cracks to the top. Variation, climb only the left hand crack at 5.11a.... best jam sequence in Welsford.

187.1. SWARMED 5.10d PG 80’/N/T
FFA: Cory Hall, Ian Lingley 2010
From the tree anchor on dynamic duo, head up left over grassy ledges. Climb up the low angled face, a bit runout but only about 5.8, the smallest micro nut will work here. Pull the roof split by a finger crack and continue straight up to a tree. Crux is very well protected, great exposure.

SHOCK AND PAW 5.11a pg 60'/N/N
FA: P.Adamson, C. Hall May 2010
FFA: P.Adamson, C. Hall May 2010
Climb the flaring, lightning bolt, crack system found at the far right end of upper dawn wall, just to the left of the large dihedral (WSoP). The abundance of face holds allows this to go at a moderate grade. Build a gear anchor then traverse over to the Ziggy Piggy tree anchor. A full set of offset nuts are STRONGLY recommended.

194. PAINTED BLACK 5.9 PG 100'/M(3)/R(2)
FFA: S.Adamson, P.Adamson 2009.09.13
This is the free ascent of previous TR route on L-Shape. Bolted by F. Berube and led by Steve. A joint effort. After the three bolts, this route merges with “Pink Stripe on Grey Canvas” with so so gear to anchor but on easier terrain.


La tête dans le cul 5.12B/C G 80'/M(3)/T
FA: A. Guimond, D. Caron 2010.06.26
FFA: P. Adamson, P-E. Shay 2010.07.03
Formely known as Project Fluo. The first part of the route is shared with Rythm Sticks. Once you reach the ledge, embark on the wild arête of the totem block making use of holds on both side of the arête to top out the very sequency crux. Finish on the same Tree as DDT.

205.1 DDT 5.9 G 100'/M(4)/B(2)
FA: F.Berube 2007
FFA: F.Berube, C.Goodman, J.Corey 2009.09.19
This route is found on top of L-Shape and Joe's Garage just left of "Some Enchanted Evening". To access, climb "Astroboy Direct" and traverse left from bolt anchor to large tree and belay from here. Alternate access, is to traverse in from base of "Rhythm Stick" safe scrambling ledge to gain the same large tree. From the big tree, move left about 15ft to gain a nice vertical crack on the face and climb it for 30 ft straight up (not to be confused with the open book crack for "Some Enchanted Evening" it's just left of that). When the crack runs out merge temporarily with the corner for “Some Enchanted Evening” then continue up the arete past bolts to finish on top of the coolest spire in Welsford. Must climb this route just to check out the view up there.
Note:
For the descent, step off the spire and bridge the gap to gain the tree with tat and rap rings. Easiest way is to rap down the left side of the spire towards "Rythm Stick" then walk through the woods to rap down the two bolted rap stations for "Pink Stripe on Grey Canvas". You can also rap the "DDT" to "Astroboy" but it's a bit more awkward and has potential for rope getting stuck.

222. SOLSTICE 5.13a 90'/M(2)/R(2)
FA: J.Bowles 2007.08.12
FFA: J.Bowles 2007.08.21
FA and FFA of previously recorded project. Climb the large arch as for Mon Premier French Kiss and break through the roof at vertical crack at lip continuing up the face above past two bolts to a rap station.
History: Bolted by Ulysse Richard in 2005 with 5 bolts total. John used natural gear for the entire first portion and only clipped the bolts above the roof. The bottom three bolts will be removed as there is natural gear available.

DIODE 5.8 PG 45'/N/T
FA: A. Martin, E. Fox 12 Oct 2009
FFA: G. Kelly, A. Martin 16 May 2010
Found on the Stairway wall, around the corner from the existing routes, near a large fallen tree. Climb the clean streak starting with a smooth slab then moving over horizontal cracks finishing at tree anchor. Takes your smallest cams.

FARAD 5.7 PG 45'/N/T
FA: A. Martin, J. Darrell 14 Oct 2009
FFA: A. Martin, G. Kelly 16 May 2010
Found on the Stairway wall, around the corner from the existing routes, near a large fallen tree. Climb the clean streak left of Diode starting with a small left going ramp. Move over horizontal cracks and clean face. Finish at tree with branch stub pointing straight out.

244.1. THE HARD AND THE EASY 5.8 20'/TR/T
FA: A.Martin 2007.08.13
FFA: TR Only
Found on the short wall at right end of The Attic. Climb the clean face 20ft right of Quiet.

252.1 JOHN BOWLTS 5.10 PG 60'/N/T
FA: F.Berube 2009.11.07
FFA: F.Berube, C.Berube 2009.11.11
Found at the left end of Upper Tier near the large left facing corner with double roof for Aventure Pedestre. Climb the arete between Aventure Pedestre and Be Still My Bleeding Heart up to the right part of the roof. Pull the roof and continue straight up the face to tree on top.
Note: This is an independent line that does not share any feature with its neighbours. Bomber but limited gear placements. Fun sequency climbing through the roof.

254. HOLE IN MY POCKET 5.10d PG 60'/M(2)/T
FFA: F.Berube 2007.08.12
This is the FFA of the previously established TR line on Upper Tier.

262.1 AGENT ORANGE 5.10b 60'/M(4)/T
FFA: F.Berube 2009.09.20
This route is found approximately 35' left of where the approach trail meets the cliff between Feathers and Wile E Coyote. Start under two bolts leading to a small roof. Follow the arching roof left through some powerful moves clipping two more bolts. Continue up easier ground above finishing on natural gear to the top.

270.1 COMMUNITY SERVICE 5.8 G 50'/M(3)/R(2)
FA: F.Berube, J.Corey 2009.09.27
FFA: F.Berube, C.Goodman 2009.10.03
This route is found on Upper Tier. Start 50' right of where the trail meets the cliff, just right of "Great Balancing Act". Mantle onto a small ramp to some broken rock then continue through a small roof and up the face past two bolts. Continue up the face prowing a fun two sided flake system and clip one more bolt. Follow the right trending diagonal crack to the top and finish at bolted rap station shared with "The Tango".

273. LE MIEL EST PLUS DOUX QUE LE SANG 5.11c 50'/M(6)/T
FFA: F.Berube 2007.08.12
This is the FFA of the previously established TR line on Upper Tier. Optional piece at top or 15ft runout where the line merges with The Waltz. Downgraded from 5.12a.



NEW ROUTES SUNNYSIDE

333.7. FINGER FEAR 5.11b/S(4)/B(2)
FA: A.Morgan 2007
FFA: P.Adamson 2008.10.04
Starting up the left facing rail on the left side of Farside wall. Farside Wall is found by following a blazed trail left of Whether Wall.

333.8. GOVERNOR OF GIVINER 5.12b/S(5)/B(2)
FA: A.Morgan 2007
FFA: P.Adamson 2008.10.04
Up the bulge in the middle of Farside wall. Farside Wall is found by following a blazed trail left of Whether Wall.

333.9. VICTORY CABBAGE 5.10c/S(5)/C
FA: E.Burley, C.Norfolk 2007
FFA: A.Morgan 2007
The right-most bolted line on Farside wall. Technical and sustained face climb. Farside Wall is found by following a blazed trail left of Whether Wall.

337.1. SMELLS LIKE RAIN, TASTES LIKE CHICKEN 5.10a 50'/S(6)/R(2)
FFA: A.Morgan 2008
Follow bolted line just right of 'Lightning'. Sustained.

337.2. AWE 5.10a 50'/S(6)/R(2)
FFA: A.Morgan 2008
Follow bolted line right of 'Smells like rain...'.

337.3. REBEL YELL 5.9 30'/S(3)/R(2)
FFA: E.Burley 2008.05.30
Found at the far left end of Atomic Wall. This climb negotiates the arête up to the right side of a big roof and corner. Finish up vertical crack to bolt anchor on face.

TORTILLONS 5.9 G 30'/N/T
FA: D. Drolet, L. Paull 2008.10.25
FFA: D. Drolet 2008.10.25
Starting 5 feet right of Rebel Yell, climb the obvious vertical crack that goes through two bulges. Really interesting sequency crux. Dirty scramble to reach huge pine way up.

345.1. FAIS-TOI PAS MAL 5.9 50’/S(6)/R(2)
FFA: A.Morgan 2008.07.28
Follow the line of bolts on the arete just right of quantum theory. There is a slight run out between the last two bolts, but the fall is super clean, and the climbing is not that hard (just a slightly awkward topout).

345.2. STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN 5.7 100'/S(10)/T
FFA: F.Berube, E.Burley 2007.05.24
This route climbs up through the highest part of the cliff. Found just left of the intersection of Atomic Wall and Sunnyside Wall. Climb up the 30' face to reach a ledge area, then cross over Castor up slabs to another 30' headwall way up high. Fun jugs to finish and a great view of the valley on top.

345.3. HIGHWAY TO HELL 5.7 100'/S(10)/T
FFA: F.Berube, J.Corey 2008.05.30
This is a variation start to Stairway to Heaven. Follow 4 bolts just right of Stairway to Heaven to gain a ledge at 40’ then merge and finish up the last 6 bolts of Stairway.

346.1. HEARTBREAKER 5.11a 100'/S(9)/T
FFA: F.Berube, J.Corey 2008.05.14
Where Atomic Wall meets Sunnyside Wall the two routes Castor and Pollux form a large V formation. The back wall behind this V formation resembles a large heart split by a crack down the middle. Follow this line to the top.

347.1. LITTLE BONES 5.7 80’/S(8)/R(2)
FA: F.Berube 2008.10.01
FFA: G.Hughes, S.Couturier 2008.10.04
Climb the bolted line between “Pollux” and “Superstar”.

FOR THE THRILL OF IT ALL 5.8 G 65'/N/R(2)
FFA: A. Martin 28 July 2010
Found on Sunnyside Wall between Man Up Beaver and Celestial Motion. Follow the obvious crack system to anchor.

352.1. MAN UP BEAVER 5.10d 60'/M(1)/R(2)
FFA: C.Hennigar 2007
Found at the right end of Sunnyside Wall. Climb the obvious vertical crack to gain a ledge. Continue up past one bolt to rap station on top.

354. SITH 5.10d 40'/S(5)/B(2)
FA: A.Morgan 2006
FFA: Project
Left most bolted line on Darkside wall. Pull through the roof then easier climbing to the top. Often wet but should be dry if no rain for a few days.

355.1. PROJECT LEFT 40’/S(4)/R(2)
FA: Project
FFA: Project
Unnamed, unclimbed projects in the center of the ‘Darkside Wall’ starts at left side of a blank roof and then traverses right a few moves and then up the face. Be sure to stick clip as a fall would be bad.

355.2. PROJECT RIGHT 40’/S(3)/R(2)
FA: Project
FFA: Project
Unnamed, unclimbed projects in the center of the ‘Darkside Wall’ starts at right side of a blank roof and then traverses left a few moves and then up the face. Be sure to stick clip as a fall would be bad.



NEW ROUTES GREENLAW

360.1. GRAND THEFT PROJECT 5.12b 70'/S(7)/R(2)
FFA: J.Bowles, F.Berube 2007.06.02
Found in the middle left of Mothership Wall. The first bolt can be clipped from the ground and the bottom of the cliff is very broken. Climb up past some hard clips to gain technical face on top. Finish at two bolt rap station. This route was bolted by Jamie Simpson in 2005 but to date had not been freed ground up. J. Bowles and F. Berube both got red-pointed on 2007.06.02.

360.2. TOP GUN 5.12c 80'/S(7)/R(2)
FFA: J.Bowles 2009.07.26
Bolted line directly left of Space Invaders.

377. MISS CONCEPTION 5.7 G 80'/S(7)/R(2)
FFA: F.Berube, M.Keays, E.Burley 2008.05.11
First free ascent of previously established project. See guidebook.

381.1. SCURVY 5.11d 60'/S(6)/R(2)
FFA: A.Morgan, C.Jones 2007.09.03
Found behind Chamcook boulder on the steep face just left of the big off-width corner. Climb the bolted face. Pumpy route requires stamina.

382.1. FLIGHT OF THE TURKEY VULTURE 5.10c G 80'/S(8)/R(2)
FFA: J.Simpson 2008.06.02
Climb the bolted face just right of the bigh offwidth Monkey Business. At the dihedral near the top when you think you've run out of bolts, look over the arete to the left for a hidden bolt.

382.2. GUSHER 5.8 80'/S(8)/R(2)
FFA: A.Morgan, C.Jones 2007.09.03
Found behind Chamcook boulder 25 feet right of the big off-width corner. Climb the bolted line starting with slightly awkward moves off the ground then up to really nice climbing on aretes halfway up. Continue past a roof and then up slab for 20 feet to bolted rap station. Great view from the anchor.



NEW ROUTES HAMPTON

407. PHYSICAL GRAFITTI 5.8 60'/S(5)/R(2)
FFA: D.Kennedy, J.Kennedy 2009.08.08
This route is an old unnamed TR project which has been bolted many years latter. Immediately right of Lunch Box, tackle overhang off the ground, and continue up steep face with good jugs to shared anchor with Lunch Box.

410. WISE WAYS 5.10c 60'/S(8)/T
FFA: J.Kennedy 2009.07.26
This route is an old TR project which has been bolted many years latter. Per guidebook description.

410.1 NEMO 5.10b 30'/S(5)/R(2)
FFA: J.Kennedy 2009.07.26
Left of "Ranger", through the overhang and onto the face. Shares 2 bolt anchor with "Ranger".

411.1. RAPTOR ARETE 5.9 80'/S(8)/R(2)
FA: G.Hughes 2007.09.23
FFA: G.Hughes 2009
Climb the arete immediately left of Marshmellow on the roadside wall.




NEW ROUTES GONDOLA POINT

420.1 DEERJAW 5.10d 30’/M(4)/T
FA: L.Toron, P.Adamson 2008.12.03
FFA: C.Hall, P.Adamson 2008.12.03
Clip the first two bolts of “Half Motorboat” then traverse left to the overhanging face and continue up it past two more bolts. Optional gear at the top. It is recommended to set-up an extended anchor from the top prior to climbing the route in order to avoid a dirty topout.

422.1. MOOSEJAW 5.10a 30'/S(3)/T
FA: C.Hall, L.Toron, K.McLellan 2008.11.30
FFA: C.Hall, P.Adamson 2008.11.30
Climb the face 10’ right of “Poison Ivy” past three bolts to a tree with colorful tat.



BALD HILL

Credits: P.Adamson (Bald Hill Info)

This is a new climbing area. From the Welsford Irving follow the 101 for roughly 10 KM or so. A little while after Queen's Ridge Rd turn left onto an unnamed road, usually marked with flagging tape around a pole. This road will quickly turn to dirt. Follow the road for another 5 minutes or so, passing a compost area on your right. At the end of the compost area turn right and drive past a small 'lake' , then turn left onto a bit rougher of a road. After another 5-10 min you will come to the top of a hill. The pullout and trailhead are on your right. The trail should be marked with flagging tape. Follow this trail for an easy 10 min to the top of the cliff. It is easily possible to drive a car to the trailhead, although the road may be quite muddy after rains. If you drive past the pullout and go down the hill you will circle around and be able to see the cliff on your right.

This cliff is popular with the local paragliders. If you're lucky, you may get to watch them launch. Also, there is a port-o-potty at the top of the cliff. From the top of the cliff, walk straight back into the woods, but not too far. There is a green port-o-potty somewhere in there. It usually has toilet paper. There is also a picnic table at the top of the cliff, but it has no side to side support, so be careful.


BALD HILL 2nd TIER

To reach this cliff, walk to the left side of the cliff (climbers left) from the top of the cliff. Look for a trail marked with flagging tape. Follow this down for a very short time. It will lead you down and around to Tomorro'clock crack and the start of the second tier. Routes are listed from left to right.

TOMORRO’CLOCK CRACK 5.9 PG 25'/N/T
FA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
At the far left of the 2nd tier, this is the first crack you come across as you hike in from the top. Easy moves on good holds gain a left trending thin crack, which quickly widens and cuts back right.

MY 3 FRIENDS 5.8 G 25'/N/B(2)
FA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson July 2008
FFA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson July 2008
Far left of 2nd tier, second crack found hiking down from the top. Good fist crack trends right before swooping back left as you pull over the bulge. Bring 2 #3 camalots.

SANTA’S NIGHTMARE 5.9 PG 25'/N/B(2)
FA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton July 2008
FFA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton July 2008
Left side of 2nd tier, Just right of My 3 Friends. Climb a large flaring chimney. Pull up on a hanging block and climb tight moves to the top. Can feel harder than the grade depending on your approach. Sling the small tree at the top as a directional for the second, then traverse left to the same tree anchor as My 3 Friends and tomorro'clock crack

AIM HIGH 5.12a 25'/S(6)/R(2)
FA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson
FFA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson
30' left of the large roof on the 2nd tier and 5' left of a large solution pocket about 10' off the ground. Climb a left facing, slightly overhanging corner, then climb straight up over the bulge at the top. Shorter climbers will be in trouble.

BREADBOX CRACK 5.10+ g 30'/n/r(2)
FA: C.Hall,J. Adamson June 2010
FFA: C. Hall, J. Adamson June 2010
Start at the left side of the gigantic roof in the middle of the wall. Climb the roof on the arete formed by the left wall of the overhang. Continue up the nice hand crack to a ledge. Traverse left to gain another hand crack to the top.

SCARRED FOR LIFE 5.11 PG 30'/N/N
FA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
Start under the large roof. On the left wall is an obvious horizontal crack. Traverse this crack to gain a ledge around the corner. Go straight up through a fist crack you can just barely reach from the ledge. Another tough one for the short climber.

THE TAHBL ROOF A1 60'
FA: S.Adamson, P.Adamson 2009.07.17
Obvious bolt ladder through the large roof. Provides a good chance to practice your roof technique.

LOCKSMITH 5.6 PG 30'/N/R(2)
FA: M.Peck, J.Cory, D.Morton, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA: M.Peck, J.Cory, D.Morton, P,Adamson July 2008
On the right side of the large roof is an obvious gully. Climb the gully to the top and then squeeze through the boulders on the inside for the true finish. Larger climbers may wish to climb out and over the boulders, athough the grade is unknown for this way.

NAYSAYER 5.11c 30’/TR/B(2)
FA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson
FFA: Project
Found on the arête between “Locksmith” and “Full Body Rock Rash”. Head straight up the arête to the offwidth to the finger crack at the top.

FULL BODY ROCK RASH 5.11d G 30'/M(4)/R(2)
FA:S.Adamson, P.Adamson, M.Peck, D.Morton
FFA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson
This route is found on the wall right of the large roof, split with several vertical cracks. Start up the corner beneath the twin cracks. When you reach the overhang traverse out left, clipping a bolt underneath the overhang. Pull over the overhang onto the flake/crack above. Med-Large pro needed for the upper section of the crack.

STUMPED 5.10b 30’/G/B(2)
FA: J.Adamson, A.Dunphey
FFA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson
Found 2 cracks to the right of “Full Body Rock Rash”. Start up the thin layback seam, up to a finger crack in a dihedral, and over the crack in the block to the top.

BLOODY MONDAY 5.9 g 25'/N/T
FA: C. Hall, J. Adamson June 2010
FFA: C. Hall, J. Adamson June 2010
Climb the OW at the far right of the wall. It is found on a piece of rock separate from the main part of the wall. Continue past the point where the wall ends for about 100'. The OW is found on the piece of rock which forms the base of the upper slabs. A #5 camalot protects it ok, a #6 would be nice.

BOULDERS
Back from the second cliff, beneath the large roof are 2 boulders with routes ranging from v0-vReallyhard. Have at em!


BALD HILL LOWER TIER (Main cliff)

There are many ways to reach this cliff. From the approach trail to bald mountain, as you near the cliff, look left into the woods for orange flagging tape around a tree. Break left off the trail here. The first 20' of the trail is a little hard to follow, but becomes obvious after that. Follow this until the end and it will deposit you at the far right end of the main cliff.

Alternatively, from the (climber's) right most boulder at the second tier, walk straight back. There will be a slab leading to the edge of the cliff. At the top of the slab is a very easy and safe to get to rap station. Don't worry, it is fine to pull the rope off of as well. This rap station will take you all the way to the bottom of the main cliff, just to left of the access gully.

As a third alternative, to the right of the rap station is a fixed static line that you can hand over hand down the access gully if you don't feel like rapping. As of right now you have to downsolo the last 15' of the access gully if you choose this method.

As a fourth alternative, walk to the left of the second tier, then bushwack on a very faint trail back through the woods and around to the bottom of the main cliff. This is probably the hardest approach to the main cliff and it is easy to get lost on. The other methods are more recommended.

Routes listed from Left to right.

THE DRAGON'S REIGN 5.10+ pg 60'/N/T
FA: J.Adamson, A.Dunphey
FFA: C.Hall, J.Adamson
Found at the far left of the lower wall. Locate the dragon shaped hold at the lip of the roof which cuts the bottom of the entire wall. Pull the roof over the dragon's head (careful! It's too cool to break off), making several campus moves out right. Traverse right through the easiest weakness in the wall then up a vertical crack. Rap my other woman is a hand crack.

MY OTHER WOMAN IS A HANDCRACK 5.6 G 20'/N/R(2)
FA: P.Adamson, M.Peck July 2008
FFA: P.Adamson, M.Peck July 2008
Near, but not quite at the farthest left wall of the main cliff is a sort of lightning bolt crack on the left wall of a right-facing corner beneath a small roof. Start on a large ledge about 5' up. Will be extremely nice after some more cleaning.

ACCESS GULLY 5.1 PG 50'/N/T
FA: S.Adamson, D.Morton July 2008
FFA: S.Adamson, D.Morton July 2008
Just left of an obvious large, wide roof and just to the right of the rappel line is a gully at the top of a large mound of dirt. 15' up there is a static line to hand over hand up if you wish. This route was solo'd, so the pro is uncertain, although the static line can easily be used as protection if you so wish. A good method for getting to the top of the cliff. Still a bit loose and dirty.

SHAKE AND BREAK 5.9 X 40'/TR/T
FA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson, S.Adamson
FFA: TR only
This route is X rated whether you do it on toprope or lead. Climb up the first 15' of the access gully, then break right to end up underneath the left side of the roof. Pull out from underneath the overhang onto the extremely aesthetic flake and continue to the top. The solidness of the flake is somewhat less than confidence inspiring, but it hasn't failed us yet. Make sure your belayer (and anyone else) is off the side, helmets might be good.

OPEN PROJECT 5.12? 90'/TR/R(2)
FA: J.Adamson, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA: Project
20' right of access gully. Start somewhere underneath the middle of the large roof. Traverse up and right through broken rock until you can gain the corner below the right side of the roof. Climb the corner, then up over the bulge to a 1.5 bolt anchor. The anchor is below the edge of the cliff, and not equipped for rapping yet, so setting up and cleaning the anchor is a little tricky. Also one of the bolts is poorly placed with the hanger not quite sitting properly on the bolt, we will fix this soon enough.

OPEN PROJECT DIRECT 5.12/13? 70'/TR/R(2)
FA: Project
FFA: Project
Instead of traversing into the corner, start directly below it and go straight up.

SHOOTING MONKEYS IN A BARREL 5.12b 90'/S(10)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson
FFA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson
20' right of the large roof on the main wall, start below sloping shelves. Make a hard mantle, and continue up through overlaps to a right slanting dike. Follow the dike to a large horizontal. Traverse back left and surmount the final bulge to the anchors. An excellent and challenging route the entire way.


ASSIMILATION 5.11d 60'/TR/T
FA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson, S.Adamson
FFA: TR only (atm)
Start on a blank, high angle slab near the middle of the main wall. At the top of the cliff, there are two blocks that stick out which have a crack running right between them. This climb is about 10-15' left of these blocks. Climb up through a series of horizontals and overlaps. We have held off on bolting this one as a key hold near the crux seems like it will break off soon and we would like to see what it leaves behind before we put bolts into the route.

NEOPOLITAN 5.10a 60'/M(5)/R(2)
FA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton
FFA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson, C.Hall, D.Morton
Start 10' right of assimilation, right below the two overhanging blocks at the top. Climb past the 1'st bolt and place a cam (very much optional) in the horizontal. Go past a lone chickenhad and another bolt. Traverse left at the 3rd bolt and continue up past more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Toprope Variation 5.11c: From the horizontal, go slightly left up sloping crimps directly under horn and past flake

REGENERATION 5.12a/b 60'/S(5)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson
FFA: P. Adamson, J.Adamson
Found 20' to the right of the large split blocks at the top of the main cliff. Climb straight up to a half moon scoop feature, and continue up to a large horizontal crack. Traverse a little left and head straight up through easier terrain to the anchors.

BEBOP 5.9 40'/S(4)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson
FFA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson
In the middle of the main cliff, at the highest point of ground, climb up funky featured rock through several horizontals to the anchors. A great bald hill moderate that is a great way to get used to the techniques needed for bald hill climbing.

ROCK STEADY 5.10 50'/S(6)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson
FFA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson
Just to the right of the highest point of ground in the middle of the main cliff, start under a small, left facing corner. Climb slab to gain horizontals then up to anchors. A great introductory bald hill moderate.

FACE THE POCKETS 5.10c 50'/S(5)/R(2)
FA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson, J.Adamson July 2008
FFA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson, C.Hall July 2008
Near the right end of the cliff is an obvious corner with a very wide crack in it. Follow it up, then traverse left to the roof and then straight up to the top. The first bolt is currently hangerless, so use a stopper or put your own hanger on it.

MCPECK ARETE 5.12a 50'/S(5)/R(2)
FA: M. Peck
FFA: P. Adamson, C. Hall June 2010
Locate the wide crack that seperates the middle and right end of the main cliff. Start up the crack but break out right about 5' up onto the face/arete, then continue to the top.

TOAD IN THE HOLE 5.10c 50'/M(4)/R(2)
FA: M.Peck, J.Barth, P.Adamson July 2008
FFA: M.Peck, J.Barth, P.Adamson July 2008
20' right of Face the Pockets is an obvious hueco at head height. Start here and follow the bolts up. Small-med pro between first and second bolt, and pro at the top if you want it.

ROCKY ROAD 5.11c 50’/S(7)/R(2)
FA: P.Adamson, S.Adamson, J.Adamson, G.Bachman
FFA: J.Adamson, S.Adamson 2009.05.19
Found 15’ right of “Toad In The Hole”, climb up a series of horizontals and overlaps all the way to the top. First bolt is a stick-clip.

DECEPTION DIKE 5.10d 50'/S(6)/R(2)
FA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson, S.Adamson
FFA: P.Adamson, J.Adamson
At the far right end of the main wall is a right trending dike which looks like a 5.6. Follow it to a rap station at the lip. The dike becomes very faint at the end and a difficult top-out variation is possible. Very nice climbing until the ridiculously hard last move to pull over the top (mono-sloper-sidepull-highstep-hand-foot-match-mantle-dyno anyone?) The first route climbed at Bald Hill. A possible exit may also go out left to a crack.

BALD HILL UPPER SLABS
These are the short slabs found at the very top of the cliff. From the bald spot on top of the hill, walk towards the edge until you see bolt anchors for these climbs. They are either top ropes or solos. Routes are listed from left to right. Unfortunately there are very few distinctive features, so many descriptions rely on the route previous. Jon has developed this wall, and would prefer it to remain boltless.

SLAB ROUTE 1 5.3 R 20'/N/B(2)
FA: M. Peck
FFA: M. Peck
The farthest slab route left.

JON HAS A NAME 5.8 R/X 20'/N/B(2)
FA: J. Adamson, A. Dunphey
FFA: J. Adamson
The second slab route from the left.

BLACK SMEAR 5.10 R/X 20'/N/B(2)
FA: J. Adamson, A. Dunphey
FFA: J. Adamson
The third slab route from the left. Follows an obvious black streak.

NO LEAD 5.11 20'/TR/B(2)
FA: J. Adamson, C. Hall
FFA:Open project
The fourth slab route from the left. Lots of lichen, pretty dirty.

NO NAME 5.8 20'/TR/B(2)
FA: J. Adamson, A. Dunphey
FFA:Open project
The fifth slab route from the left.


KINGSTON CRAG

Monster’s Garden 5.6 35’ / S (3) / R (1)
FA: G. Hughes 2010.05.17
FFA: S. Couturier, G. Hughes 2010.05.23
Found on the far right end of Jester Wall. Climb up big jugs/ledge to purple water stained rock. Pull the slight overhang and continue up slab to anchor.

Athena 5.6 80’ / TR / T
FA: M. Couturier 2010.05.08
Start at the base of a White Birch tree between Medusa and Cleopatra. Climb the corner for about 15 feet and then continue up the right side of the slab to the top.

Rhetoric 5.11b 90’ / TR / T
FA: S. Couturier 2009.09.19
Down and left of Medusa (same start as Gilgamesh). Climb up easy ledges to gain a narrow face that widens as it goes up and then faces left. Climb up the center of the overhanging, thin face to mature Spruce tree.

Enkidu 5.10 100’ / S (10) / R (2)
FA: Thomas Fogarty 2009.09.07
FFA: Thomas Fogarty 2010.03.13
Start is between two clumps of Yellow Birch trees, directly left of small cave on a large detached block. Crank a boulder move to gain the block. Continue straight up and over joining Glooscap on easier low angle slab.

Cracktacular 5.9 PG 75’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.05.23
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.05.23
Found 100’ up and left of Agamemnon. Follow a path to a short headwall directly below an overhanging buttress. On the right hand side of the buttress is a right facing corner with a very nice 40 foot long vertical crack. Climb up the slightly runout but easy headwall to gain the crack. Continue up, jamming or laybacking to reach the end of the crack. From here continue up on the slab to top and tree anchor. Standard rack to 3". Fun!

Chicken Little 5.11c 60’ / S (5) / B (2)
FFA: J & D Kennedy. 2010.06.12
Immediately right of "Another Drumstick", follows a very shallow groove. Previously known as "Nebakanezer". Thin moves and good footwork at the bottom, to huge ledges to the top.

The Eider Section 5.11a, 90’ / S (7)/ T
FFA: J & D Kennedy. 2010.06.12
Start up Medusa using 1st bolt, then trend left up the center of the overhanging, thin face to mature spruce tree. Was previously "Unnamed 5.12". Don't use the ridge on the lower section or you'll get in trouble. However on the final move I used the ridge because it's just so screamingly obvious. If you have the discipline to just use the thin face holds, it's probably 5.12.

Nothing But Air 5.9 70’ / S(5) / R(2)
FA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.07.28
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.07.28
Furthest bolted line on Jester buttress. Delicate, balancy climbing up to the ledge near top of wall. After gaining ledge step left over chimney and continue up Main Wall through overhanging section on good jugs to anchor.

Cleopatra 5.11a 80’ / S(7) / R(2)
FA: S. Couturier 2009.05.30
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.07.28
Start is left of Odysseus on slightly overhanging face. Climb the crimpy face and continue through the most direct line of the main wall. Steep, sustained climbing with technical crux.

Aphrodite 5.8 50’ / S (4) / T
FA: S. Couturier, M. Couturier, E. Couturier 2010.08.20
FFA: S. Couturier, M. Couturier, E. Couturier 2010.08.29
Start is twenty feet right of Monster’s Garden next to a right trending ramp. Staying on the face is 5.8 climbing; stepping right to the ramp makes it significantly easier. Climb up to large ledge then continue up a short but steep section to anchor. Orange tape near the bottom denotes survey line not a project.

Nut Up 5.10a 40’ / S (5) / R (2)
FA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.08.05
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2010.08.22
Same start as Odysseus but after clipping first bolt make a hand traverse up the right trending ledge. After clipping fourth bolt continue up through overhanging section on big jugs to anchor.