Photo request - Upper Tier

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

Moderators: PeterA, chossmonkey, Stacey, Dom, granite_grrl, Greg, Joe

Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby Andrew » Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:29 am

I'm looking for some photos of The Upper Tier from OLOKITOLOT and a few routes to the right. I'm trying to figure out which route I climbed yesterday.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby Fred » Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:25 am

Describe it and I might be able to help ya out.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby Andrew » Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:55 am

This route is two routes over from OLOKITOLOT, which by the 2007 Guidebook would tell me that it is "Ruffus" 10c.
Half way up, there is a bolt, then a horizontal crack that could take a cam (maybe) and then another bolt above the crack. Anchors are new hangers with rings. As you are climbing up, you get to a point where a diagonally right trending thick flake you can undercling is in your path, but you have to move further right a few feet and then go up to reach that horizontal crack and then follow that left and go up to the anchor.

There is a spot where you have to use a small mono-pocket (it was a stretch for my 5.9 height) and move on up.

I don't remember there being a roof on this, but the other 3 routes I did that day were roofs. The books seems to say its Ruffus, which I thought might have meant that it had a roof.

My confusion is that the route to the right of OLOKITOLOT is called "Finger the Mono, Shorty" which led me to believe that may be the route I was on. The guidebook doesn't substantiate that, unless another route was put in and not in the new routes list
Hope this helps. My memory is faded from this route. It was definitely 5.10+, though I think Tom told me it felt like a 9+ just so I would get on it. LOL.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby *Chris* » Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:15 am

It's funny... cause you were trying to finger the mono... but you were too short! :lol:

I'd say there's no question as to where you were. Fun route!
User avatar
*Chris*
 
Posts: 848
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:32 pm
Location: Fredericton

Re: Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby Fred » Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:05 am

Sounds like you were on Finger The Mono Shorty but that is the next bolted route right of Olokitolot not two routes over (unless someone has bolted something recently). There is a mixed piece at mid height as you describe. I use a red tricam or sometimes run it out.

I don't think Rufus has those new rap rings but Great Balancing Act does which would be three routes right of Olokitolot.

If my memory serves me right it should be from left to right:

Olokitolot 5.10a (sport)
Finger The Mono Shorty 5.10d (mixed)
Ruffus 5.10c (mixed)
Great Balancing Act 5.10b (mixed)
Community Service 5.8 (mixed) right trending and finish on same anchor as Tango
The Tango 5.10a (mixed) shares same start as Waltz
The Waltz 5.10a (mixed)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby Andrew » Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:00 pm

I think maybe there is a new line that has been recently put up to the right of OLOKITALOT and the route we were on was Finger the Mono Shorty 10d.

Maybe someone will be up there and see it and report back :)

CHeers.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby coryhal » Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:20 pm

i was up there on saturday and no new routes around there, i think your all turned around
coryhal
 
Posts: 109
Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:29 am

Re: Photo request - Upper Tier

Postby Fred » Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:23 pm

Yeah and I don't think there's any decent rock between Olokitolot and Mono. I doubt there is a new route there.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB


Return to New Brunswick

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 15 guests