J'ai vole ta blonde

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J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby STeveA » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:31 am

Peter and I led J'ai vole ta blonde on Saturday. I had forgotten how nice that route is. I think it is one of (if not the) the best jam cracks in Welsford. It is not long, but the hand/fist jams are solid, the rock is solid, and the pro is solid. If you have not tried it, I would highly recommend the route.
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby *Chris* » Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:39 pm

Got on this one last year... and I agree, very nice crack climb.
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby motanb » Mon Sep 10, 2007 5:27 pm

...agreed...if only it kept going...
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Fred » Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:27 pm

funny thing... everyone talks about jamming this crack and I've always laybacked and face climbed. hehe Tradmaster??? not exactly...
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Dom » Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:01 pm

Fred wrote:funny thing... everyone talks about jamming this crack and I've always laybacked and face climbed. hehe Tradmaster??? not exactly...


I did the same, screw jamming it...ohh yeah and I did clip the last bolt from Teenage Arete because it was right there.

Awesome route!
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Stacey » Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:34 am

Dombackpacker wrote:
Fred wrote:funny thing... everyone talks about jamming this crack and I've always laybacked and face climbed. hehe Tradmaster??? not exactly...


I did the same, screw jamming it...ohh yeah and I did clip the last bolt from Teenage Arete because it was right there.

Awesome route!



oh oh - - BOLT clipping by a CRACK!~?
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby STeveA » Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:34 am

If you are clipping the bolt on Teenage Arete from J'ai vole ta blond then you are off route by quite a ways. I have climbed the route many times both as an aid climb and a free climb, and I could not reach the bolt to clip it, nor would I want to take that sort of swing. There is a great crack that takes hexes and friends.
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Dom » Thu Nov 12, 2009 1:26 pm

STeveA wrote:If you are clipping the bolt on Teenage Arete from J'ai vole ta blond then you are off route by quite a ways. I have climbed the route many times both as an aid climb and a free climb, and I could not reach the bolt to clip it, nor would I want to take that sort of swing. There is a great crack that takes hexes and friends.


All the bolts are off route by quite a ways except the top one... Why would I have clipped it otherwise?

I'm not against it, it's a great to practice a trad climbing crux with sport protection :mrgreen:
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby *Chris* » Thu Nov 12, 2009 2:16 pm

It's all just hearsay and conjecture until John tells us what the truth is... either that... or we wait for the judgement of the bolt committee. :roll:
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Shawn B » Thu Nov 12, 2009 2:36 pm

Dombackpacker wrote:All the bolts are off route by quite a ways except the top one... Why would I have clipped it otherwise?


For the same reason you laybacked and face climbed it instead of jamming :?: :wink:
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Adam » Thu Nov 12, 2009 2:53 pm

Shawn B wrote:For the same reason you laybacked and face climbed it instead of jamming :?: :wink:


this is prob why John could clip DDT on SEE... :twisted:
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Dom » Thu Nov 12, 2009 3:42 pm

Shawn B wrote:
Dombackpacker wrote:All the bolts are off route by quite a ways except the top one... Why would I have clipped it otherwise?


For the same reason you laybacked and face climbed it instead of jamming :?: :wink:


That's a valid point. I am a sport climber and can't resist the urge to clip bolts...hehe

Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Fred » Thu Nov 12, 2009 4:02 pm

*Chris* wrote:It's all just hearsay and conjecture until John tells us what the truth is... either that... or we wait for the judgement of the bolt committee. :roll:


:lol: hahaha You made my day Chris.
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Greg » Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:34 pm

Dombackpacker wrote:
Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!


Bolts - shmoltz, why clip a bolt when you have a perfect cam placement right in front of you. :lol: :lol:
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby martha » Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:30 am

Greg H wrote:
Dombackpacker wrote:
Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!


Bolts - shmoltz, why clip a bolt when you have a perfect cam placement right in front of you. :lol: :lol:



That being said Greg.... the real question is *could* you have clipped it?
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby STeveA » Fri Nov 13, 2009 1:36 pm

The reason I mention this is because as the first ascentionist(?) for both routes, and being very aware of the bolting ethics for Welsford, it never entered my mind that the bolts would be clippable from J'ai Vole ta blonde. I have climbed both routes recently, and it still would not enter my mind to clip the bolts. Maybe the ethics need to be more defined to include a statement:

"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

This might clear up some confusion about the ethics regarding bolts.
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby martha » Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:49 pm

STeveA wrote:The reason I mention this is because as the first ascentionist(?) for both routes, and being very aware of the bolting ethics for Welsford, it never entered my mind that the bolts would be clippable from J'ai Vole ta blonde. I have climbed both routes recently, and it still would not enter my mind to clip the bolts. Maybe the ethics need to be more defined to include a statement:

"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

This might clear up some confusion about the ethics regarding bolts.


You Rock Steve. I love this. :)

exactly this about the bolts on FRed's new route.
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby jdhohmann » Sat Nov 14, 2009 5:43 pm

STeveA wrote:The reason I mention this is because as the first ascentionist(?) for both routes, and being very aware of the bolting ethics for Welsford, it never entered my mind that the bolts would be clippable from J'ai Vole ta blonde. I have climbed both routes recently, and it still would not enter my mind to clip the bolts. Maybe the ethics need to be more defined to include a statement:

"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

This might clear up some confusion about the ethics regarding bolts.


Wow, Say that twice real quick like!!!!!! :D
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Greg » Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:18 pm

martha wrote:
Greg H wrote:
Dombackpacker wrote:
Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!


Bolts - shmoltz, why clip a bolt when you have a perfect cam placement right in front of you. :lol: :lol:



That being said Greg.... the real question is *could* you have clipped it?


Of course but why would a trad climber clip a bolt? :twisted:
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Greg » Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:20 pm

STeveA wrote:
"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."



This is priceless. :lol: :lol:
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby Dom » Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:17 am

STeveA wrote:This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."


Just for the record I didnt wear sport climber spandex when I clipped the bolt.

hehe
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Re: J'ai vole ta blonde

Postby martha » Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:44 am

Greg H wrote:
Martha wrote:

That being said Greg.... the real question is *could* you have clipped it?


Of course but why would a trad climber clip a bolt? :twisted:


I agree with you...I'm a trad climber too, however, I'm just trying to make the point that the bolt is within reach of a trad route. I don't care one way or the other, but the point needs to be made for the sake of the DDT/SEE discussion.
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